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It's not difficult, especially in stuff like CofL which is very soft. When I used to do this sort of thing I kept on reversing the timber to saw from the other side. Relatively easy then to keep the saw on the line - Rob

Depends on what you're doing Joe; 15mm is more than thick enough for a drawer bottom and I generally make mine around 7 or 8mm thick as there's no hard and fast rule. Even with a bandsaw, it would be tricky to re-saw a 15mm board to obtain two thinner ones. By the time they were planed you might...

I use the 'Dowelmax' system from Canada which is superbly accurate but it doesn't appear to be available any more in the UK. Could be wrong. Mike G has mentioned that doweling isn't as strong as conventional joinery (mortice and tenon) Tests done by Dowelmax and Derek Jones (then editor of F&C...

I bought this from Axminster some years ago and it's rarely been used; in fact this size appears not to be available any more. I checked the outside with an Ax 'Precision' 225mm square and it's true, but the interior angle is a tiny fraction out, less than 0.5mm As it's a fairly weighty...

If you ring Axminster and place a special order, they'll make up blades for you which are from very thin stock material; they don't cost a lot more either. I did that a few years ago but the current DG blades are fine on both my machines - Rob

Clever. It would appear from one of the pics that the short side interiors are flat; I would have tried (probably unsuccessfully) to make them concave to match the curvature of the dovetails - Rob

Same here; I've found the Diamond Ground tooth blade really very good, in fact I use nothing else and always re-order the same thing. Like all blades they become 'tired' after a while but recently I had to put a new one on the machine as although the blade was still cutting true, the oak sawdust...

Totally agree. I've used Mike's method of a clamped straight edge and a circular saw and still do...for stuff where the cut isn't critical. I also however, have a Festooly track saw which produces a far superior and more accurate cut. To compare the two is bonkers IMO :lol: - Rob

Same, a completely unnecessary bit of kit in a small workshop - Rob

Depends where the mm is and whether it's crucial or not. When you lay out a project to begin with, your working drawing (if you do one and you should) ought to have metric sizes which are the starting point and are outlined in the cutting list eg; 2 front rails 500 x 50 x 18; material - oak...

Now that 'lockdown' restrictions have finally started to ease, I've been able to get down to the glaziers and get this Fossil Cabinet for my daughter dun n'dusted: When HMG gives us the 'green light' it'll be delivered to Carlisle - Rob

That's actually how it should be done but maybe 1mm instead of 2. Making them a fraction thinner pulls the table top down hard onto the frame - Rob

I remember them well. If these particular frames are iroko it's worth the OP bearing in mind that's it's pretty nasty stuff to work with; the dust is particularly irritating when it's being machined - Rob

Agreed absolutely! Pick up the 'fone (don't email) and speak to somebody at AxHQ and don't put the 'fone down again until you have explained precisely what's going on. I once had some grief from them a few years ago and when I mentioned that I knew the MD personally, the change in attitude was...

Lots of sound advice here which you'd be very well advised to read and absorb. A first time project such as this is one I wouldn't even dream about doing. As others have rightly mentioned, keep it simple, keep it straightforward and don't overcomplicate the build. Really think you're way...

It's a real shame you don't want to sub-divide it and I can quite understand why. I suspect that it's probably too much timber for the 'run of the mill' sort of turning but that said it's beautiful timber that will take incredible detail. I'd like at some point to try the dark art of 'thread...

Depending on the size of the cabinet, I usually install a panelled back which can then be dropped into a (machined :shock: ) rebate, so there's a bit of t n'grooving involved...except I do it on the router table which is a bit quicker - Rob

It doesn't need to be very much but they ought to be slightly higher as I've indicated. There's no hard n'fast rule set in concrete because every job is different. It's really a trick to attempt to deceive the eye - Rob

Interesting as I've had a hankering to do some pen turning. As most (read all?) pen kits seem to be made in China, I'm loathe to invest in tat and would rather get some kits from the top end (as it were), so who make the best kits and are there any that are made in the UK or Europe? - Rob

As do I as it adds visual 'weight' to the piece. Similarly, drawer pulls/handles should be positioned progressively slightly higher than centre as the drawers get lower, so say the bottom drawer has it's pull positioned 15mm higher than centre. The reason is that when standing up and looking at...