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Paul Chapman built his bench top from 3 x 18mm thick MDF boards with something sacrificial over the top. Very heavy, very solid - Rob

Utterly and absolutely brilliant with a capital B. The coarse diamond wheel actually releases the full potential of the Tormek as it never wears or glazes over, so there's no truing with the diamond thingie. Using the standard wheel as supplied is fine for O1 steel but it's hopeless on A2 and...

Osmo straight out the tin is far too gloopy for a decent finish, however it's applied but if it's thinned about 40% with white spirit, a much better surface is obtained. I just use a Liberon lacquer brush to slosh it on and cut back between each coat with 600g abranet with around three coats in...

Steve, I once made a large octagonal coffee table in solid oak and finished in solely with BLO aka Alan Peters. It soaked up oil like it was going out of fashion and took weeks to dry but eventually the frame did take on some sort of a sheen but the top remained quiet dull and wasn't very good...

To go slightly off topic here; I also felt the same way about A2, but have 'come round' to using it again. I have a mixture of PM-V11 and A2 blades in my BU planes and each type of steel can be honed so they perform identically. There are also A2 blades in my LN block plane and LN51 shooter...

Yep, that's all you need. I use something similar that I bought from Matt Platt at WH a few years ago - Rob

That's true John, but unfortunately my old pal Pete Newton (Newt of this parish) who used to do odd bits n'pieces of metalwork for me (and others btw) passed away a few years ago. In fact, he was a superb metalworker; you could eat your dinner of the bed of his Myford, which was actually heated...

Wrong colour...not Record blue :lol: - Rob

I use the original Record version with the small tommy bar and it sits in an iron collar in the bench top. Never had any problems with it but I sometimes wish I could fit another couple of collars somewhere on the bench top - Rob

Out of interest Brian, what timber did you make the toothed gears from? I would imagine something hard wearing like apple or hornbeam would be ideal and I would again assume that they've been cut out on a scroll saw. I'm not a scroller, but I'd be tempted if I were to make a project like...

Got a router, a top bearing cutter and a wide, straight bit of wood? Cramp the wood to the line, bearing cut off the waste and use a chisel for the inside corner, placing the back against the wood as a guide. About three minutes work; dead accurate and dead easy - Rob

Sorry to be the bearer of sad tidings, but you're completely wrong :D The way to control the depth of cut is to use printer paper shims under the sole; remove one piece of paper at a time to drop the plane by it's thickness, take a cut, remove another piece of paper to drop the sole, take...

That is superb, but I don't think I could live with that 'tick-tock' clonking noise for very long :lol: - Rob

This little snippet that I wrote (forget Laura Selhurst at the top, she just added her name :lol:) might offer some guidance - Rob

I'm not sure there's anything you can do about Cascamite bleed through; the stuff sets glass hard so I can't envisage anything that will touch it. Custard might know a trick or two though - Rob

I just used some small 8mm rare earth magnets from Axminster - Rob

Yep, about 10 minutes to make a PRV - Rob

Can you clarify please? - Rob

Easy Bob...don a powered respirator, up tip the the butt contents onto the 'shop floor, shovel into two black waste sacks, thence to the wheely bin. Then depart the 'shop for half and hour to let the dust settle and head to the house for a mug of strong coffee...and a biscuit(s). Sorted - Rob

I have a 220 litre water butt as the collector for my cyclone. The trick Bob, is to empty your drum detritus into a black plastic sack and then put it into the wheely bin. Issue sorted and I've never had a problem with the bin men taking it away - Rob