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Same here; I like Marche's and their stuff is pretty good - Rob

See Droog's 'Ironmongery' post on the Joinery & Cabinetmaking Forum; might be something useful in there. Looks an interesting site anyway - Rob

That would work fine. Clamping the job at an angle allows you to better see both the line across the end grain and one of the gauge lines down the side; doesn't really matter how you do it as long as you can see both lines - Rob

Good stuff and it's about time that somebody filled this obvious gap in the market...I use a plastic Super Dust Deputy from the USA which is prohibitively expensive :shock: and the tin plate fittings that come with it are appalling. That Ax neglected to include instructions and a gasket with...

Yep, absolutely...works a treat- Rob

Indeed Jacob...I started on UKW donkey's years ago and the mantra hasn't changed one iota :lol: :lol: - Rob

Bear in mind that some timbers are much more suitable for cutting boards than others; I'd stick with the tried and tested favourites like Maple, Sycamore and Beech etc. - Rob

IMO 2.5>3mm is ample to work with for laminating purposes. Normal commercial veneer sold for the same sort of work is 2mm thick, but if you try and put that thin sawn stuff through the thicknesser, it's liable get chewed up. Much better to put it through drum sander as this will then result in...

The might do but I wonder how the Japanese managed for centuries? Go to any traditional Japanese building and you'll find sliding wooden doors running in wooden grooves - Rob

I'd totally agree with Richard here; if you have a quantity of BLO just slosh it on. When it's dry though, I'd also apply a thin coat of wax to the top just to act as a 'resist' so glue doesn't stick to the surface - Rob

If you have a convenient stables nearby, try immersing the brass in horse urine. Pete Newton (Newt) recommended that method to me as one that's messy :lol: but apparently very effective - Rob

Depending on how you work, you don't need a table saw at all. Get hold of a much more useful (IMO) bandsaw and use a really great shooting board. Note that all the projects in the sig block below were built without recourse to a table saw - Rob

Tuff saw blades are good and it's a revelation when you experience a decent blade for the first time, but don't forget there are other suppliers who provide blades equally as good - Rob

Not a chance, from one who 'knows' :lol: - Rob

I've got a Record vice on my bench and have used beech for the jaws; it's been fine for almost a couple of decades. Make sure that when you fit the jaws you have a little bit of 'toe in' so that the top grips the job slightly before the bottom. The best way to check this when fitting is to use a...

Never used them but I've heard the same, so I stick with traditional 'old skool' Record (or similar) sash cramps - Rob

35mm thick with 1.4m 'twixt the brackets would be more than ample, but the Sagulator would give you a definite answer. Agree about comments ref the butterflies; not very clever and better IMO in much darker wood - Rob

I've had reasonable and bad ply from B&Q and don't generally use them; Wickes ply on the other hand I've found to better but still with some voids - Rob

I currently use Pozidrive but I'm running them down and switching over to Torx which are much better. I use traditional brass slotted screws of various denominations which are still made (the last screws I ordered were No.5 x 25 & 30mm) but do cost an arm n'a leg - Rob

Agreed; I tried one a few years ago at the Guildhall in Salisbury, a very pleasant venue. I had to piggy back 3rd party insurance from the organiser's policy, pay for my table and all I managed to sell was a few turned mushrooms and a single bowl. On the other hand, a couple of weeks ago I...