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One way, but not necessarily the most economic is to keep the construction simple but orientate and choose the grain direction/pattern very carefully. For example, opposing stiles and rails ought to be bookmatched (cut from one thicker block) and the same with the panels. Sometimes tricky to get...

Nice job on the jewellery box. Just as a matter of interest and for future ref, standard suede leather isn't the best material to line a jewellery box with as it will tarnish metal. Some time ago I bumped into one of my ex-students who now works for Halstock and he showed me a console table...

Sorry to hear about the arthritis in your hands SB, I didn't know. I quite understand now why you use the tablesaw. To have that affliction in your hands must be bloody horrible, especially if you're a keen woodworker. All the best - Rob

Each to their own as ever SB :lol: Without wishing to take this thread further OT, I've had a look at your projects itemised on your sig block (and very nice they are too) and I reckon all of them could be made with a bandsaw, shooting board and tracksaw (as well as other workshop kit) If...

As others have said, pine is tricky stuff to work with and even more so if it's quickly grown with wide annual ring spacing...the type of stuff that you often find in the 'sheds'. Really good quality pine is out there, mostly in builder's yards and decent timber merchants, but you've got to go...

Just scanning back through this thread and I came across this snippet. Apologies if it's slightly OT, but I haven't used a table saw for years now and don't see need for one in a smallish hobbyist 'shop. A decent, well set up bandsaw(s) together with an accurate shooting board is all I need for...

Absolutely. In a 'shop without insulation, the heat from an oil filled rad will make hardly any difference; it'll just leak away through the walls and roof space but if it's on all the time in via an electronic thermostat in a fully insulated 'shop, the inside temp will gradually increase. For...

Agreed, the motor size and strength of the frame are crucial; almost everything else is secondary. I recollect reading that the maximum width of blade used should be a size down from the stated capacity of the machine, so if, for example it will take accept 25mm blade, it may not be able to...

Doesn't really matter which tpi saw you get, they both work in the same way. I bought one from WH yonks ago and still use it when I need to cut flush stuff but I use a bit of card from an old cereal box to stop the teeth from damaging the surrounding surface...in theory, they shouldn't but they...

If you have the latest Ax catalogue, have a look on the back cover at the new UJK Drill Guide - Rob

A decent quality, relatively knot free pine should be fine, say around 8-10mm thick, it's not crucial. I'd tend to look for slow grown pine with tightish growth rings, but if you want to be really clever you can get hold of normal slash sawn boards, plane them parallel on each face and then...

As others have said....nowt - Rob

Ax are pretty good as are Record and I would guess are the main contenders at the hobby end of the market. Tuff saw blades are also good but Ax Ground Tooth are equally so; best to closely look at all possible machines within your budget before parting with the hard earned 'folding' - Rob

Yep, I'll be going; Phill Edwards (Phillyplanes) has promised one of his bright pink pencils :D - Rob

Agreed, not suitable for dominos. Do it the Alan Peters way and use some lengths of 6mm ply located in grooves...sort of like elongated biscuits but much stronger - Rob

I believe the 'V' stands for 'version' as it was the 11th type of steel they tried until they found something acceptable - Rob

I'm no expert on this Chas, but when we were in NZ last year we spent some time with Rick Taylor who does some fabulous stuff using ancient or 'Swamp' Kauri. Whilst there, he made me a beautiful bowl from timber (green and yellow kauri with 'whitebait' streaks) that was 3850 years old. To finish...

I used to use a set of the DMT stones a few years ago which I found pretty good but there are other reputable brands around now which are just as good. Diamond stones cut very coarsely until they 'bed' in after a while. You can, I think, use them dry but I always used a quick squirt of WD40 or a...

As you've asked the question, this is the system that I use and one which I'm very happy with...but it's not the cheapest! Grinding - Tormek T7 fitted with a coarse diamond wheel. Expensive, but the coarse diamond wheel (around £200 :shock: ) is a revelation. Honing - a selection of...

Sharpening isn't difficult but it's crucial in woodwork; without sharp tools you (or I ) won't achieve much. Essentially what we're discussing is the intersection of two planes of steel and the finer the intersection, the sharper the blade. However, there are hundreds of ways of achieving that...