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The wet sap is the pale outer wood (almost cream coloured) which is considered a gourmet banquet for all your local wood boring insects; I immediately saw off all the sap and dispose accordingly. It seems a waste, but 'ruthless' is the name of the game...get rid of it; you should really only...

Branches are OK for turning, but the main trunk is really too small to get anything worthwhile out of for projects etc. Once all the sap has been cut off and burnt, the brown usable heartwood is liable to be fairly narrow - Rob

+1; walk away - Rob

Nope, not really but agreeing with you - Rob

What you're trying to do here is to go counter to centuries of perceived wisdom and good practice. A solid panel will move; indeed solid timber will move (as discussed yesterday in the thread about mitred corners on a 600mm wide solid wood top) alarmingly and you need to make allowances for that...

The only other way to avoid seeing the end grain is to use so called 'bread board' ends. Personally, I would just opt for seeing the end grain and have done with it as there's nothing intrinsically wrong with that approach - Rob

I can't remember that source either but for all your woody information I'd thoroughly recommend 'Cut & Dried' by some bloke called Jones :lol: :lol: - Rob

Thanks for that Derek, much appreciated. The block plane as I recollect was new at the time and perhaps the initial blade honing at 30deg was in 'soft' steel as it's sometimes prone to be? I'll have a go at honing the A2 blade (which has now had couple of re-grinds) on my current low angle block...

You've got nearly 600mm of solid timber to make the top; with the best will in the world, I suspect that it will move. If it expands just a smidge, it'll burst the mitres; if it contracts it'll pull away from the edge lipping(s) so whatever you do, you could be in for problems in the long run...

We used one based in Nottingham (after doing a G search) but the official Gaggia importer is the one we'll use next time. Basic service and de-scale cost about £90 plus a couple of replacement parts For our bean grinder, we use the Gaggia one which seems pretty good; no complaints. Once the bag...

I've no doubt that this is sound advice for a block plane blade, but users of LN block planes with their A2 blades (such as myself) run into difficulties at 25deg. Some time ago, I honed my original A2 blade at 30deg and subsequently noticed that the sole of the plane behind the mouth was...

We've just had our Gaggia Classic serviced and repaired after nine years of daily use. Even though we have a Kinetico water softener, the machine was still badly clogged so the cost of a regular service is something you need to factor in; back now to really good espresso and cappuccino for 'er...

I reckon the so called 'Dutchman' is valid Richard, provided it's done with reasonable care and diligence. On my Brown Oak 'puter desk, the veneers went a bit 'thin' at one corner (due mainly to a knackered b/s blade) so I had no option but to insert a patch. Unless you know it's... ...there...

Indeed Mike! When you do the sums if the blade is honed to 30deg and it's got a 12.5deg bed, the ef (effective pitch) of the blade is 42.5deg - Rob

Agreed, there are many tools that you don't actually need, but are 'nice' to have none the less. However, a block plane is one you do (IMO) actually need, not only for the small jobs, but the bigger jobs as well where a big plane is just too unwieldy; thinking here about squaring up say, the...

That's what I'd go for as well. If it's done with care, you'd hardly notice the dutchman(s) on a timber like sycamore - Rob

Having just finished the book 'The Why and How of Woodworking' by Michael Pekovich, I can recommend the use of blue tape for marking out joints, especially dovetails. He's a particularly big fan and having tried out his method(s) the other day, it does work! That wasn't the main reason for...

Tyler's near Andover have recently opened something similar but it only seems to be about the size of a double garage with nowhere near the stock of this place - Rob

Each corner has a 150mm, 12mm dia steel dowel epoxied in place; they're going nowhere :D - Rob

Nope, initial shaping on the seat(s) was done with an Ax tc cutter in the angle grinder. Effective but very fierce! - Rob