Search results

Think about what I said SB; the timber is going the wrong way but it's between the fence and the cutter and because of the direction of rotation it's still cutting into the wood, not back cutting. If it was back cutting, I agree, it would be very dangerous. That said, you still need to be very...

Also make sure you wear some thick leather gardening gloves when you 'flip' the blade - Rob

Agreed SB but the OP specifically said 'by hand'. I don't use a table saw but I usually machine my mdf (when I use it) by passing it back the wrong way between the cutter and the fence which produces a parallel cut, assuming that you have one straight datum to start with - Rob

That's how I would do it as well, but it does of course depend on the size of the shooting board and if each piece is say, 1.5m x 350cm then the shooting board is probably too small, but for smaller stuff Aidan's suggestion is one I'd adopt - Rob

I was going to suggest that as well; we've used it to translate several bits n'pieces of Japanese text, but I suspect that the kanji script on the saw blade is the maker's name - Rob

Agreed Andy, it can be, but it doesn't necessarily have to be. A framework of 4x4" (say) dry fencing posts, something similar for the rails, three sheets of 18mm mdf glued and screwed together for the top + a bit of the same for the rear bracer (screwed and glued) + something sacrificial on the...

There are loads of different ways to make a bench, but Mike is spot on; mass is everything. The Schwarz in the ATC mentions that once a bench gets to around 130Kg it's not going anywhere, despite whatever mayhem is inflicted on it. Make it able to withstand horizontal ('racking' forces when...

Those London Pattern handles look great and if you have access to a lathe are quite easy to turn; I've done several handles in English Walnut which looks even better than Rosewood - Rob

Sorry, but it is standard practice. You don't need much upward pressure as the board exits the machine; just a very gently 'uplift' using one finger is usually enough. It works - Rob

I've tried a few of these things over the decades and the Arno one with the tungsten burnisher from WH is the best IMO by several light years. Sharpening a card scraper blade is one of the easiest jobs in the 'shop but it's surprising how many people make a complete hash of it - Rob

Interesting discussion but if you use low angle, bevel up planes as I do (and have done for around 15 years now) the geometry of a BU plane means that with a 12deg bed it's nigh on impossible to camber the blade. As you tip a cambered blade (as illustrated by Mike G) from the vertical back to...

These were standard length dovetail chisels with a 'C' shaped or domed back. The bigger chisels were OK but the 6mm just bent on use which meant is was very difficult to use, not to say dangerous if it did snap. Personally, I thought they were as much use as a chocolate teapot so I sent them...

Mine did! - Rob

My only experience with AI was with their so called 'dovetail' chisels with a curved back. When vertical pressure was applied, the smaller ones bent....alarmingly! :shock: :shock: I sent them back to Workshop Heaven and got a full refund. Sorry, but I couldn't recommend any chisel brand...

A Japanese cross-cut Gyokucho dozuki from Workshop Heaven. I've had this saw for several years and have recently replaced the blade, so it's effectively a brand new saw. In addition there's also another brand new replacement blade. For sale at £33 which includes packing and courier delivery - Rob

In the Oscar Pipsonesque bar stools I recently completed, I'd class them as 'sculptural' as opposed to 'carving' which to me implies a lot more detail. I used a variety of carving/sculptural tools including Ax 'Rider' gouges (excellent if anyone's interested) Sabuur burrs in a hd flexible shaft...

If you were within striking distance of Salisbury I could have given you free n'gratis a couple of really heavy cast iron brackets and legs meant for a Nova lathe stand (sent to me in error by Yandles) - Rob

Some time ago I found a brand spanking new, boxed block plane in my local (and very good) discount store for the wallet breaking price of £1.00. I should have bought one at the time and sent it to you Mike :lol: :lol: - Rob

True tale. When I was making for Linely some years ago, my then boss made a trial piece for 'Linners' which was then inspected by one of his team, who examined the underside with a torch and spotted some Pozidrive screws buried deeply in counterbored holes. Without averting his beady eyes from...

Depends on your preferences; for me it's always brass screws and as others have said, cut the thread first with a steel screw with an identical thread and make sure there's a smear of lube in the hole; I always use Vaseline and keep a tub specifically for that purpose. Two additional things to...