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It was the first person who said they were happy to collect - Rob

Yep, that's fine but NOT Sunday (20th) morning; after 2.30ish pm should be fine. The only ones that won't be included are those that I've contributed to over the years - Rob

There are boxes and boxes and boxes of the the things. If nobody collects them within the next few days they'll be soon residing in a landfill - Rob

Back issues of Furniture & Cabinetmaking (and others ie. BW and FWW): (260.72 KiB) This is only half of them with No.1 on top. FTAGH; collection from Salisbury - Rob

Crown Cryo 19mm Skew chisel, little used, pretty much brand new. For sale at £33 inc p&p - Rob

Ax 'Rider' chisels are made by Narex, with much better oiled Horbeam handles and a stainless steel ferule. No affiliation of any sort, but they are really excellent chisels - Rob

Image deleted - Rob

Nice Derek :D The current project underway in the 'shop also has a secret compartment where said compartment is entirely hidden inside the drawer front and only a very close inspection using the MK 1 eyeball will reveal how to open it! :D - Rob

Very cunning indeed Derek =D> I saw something very similar done using a veneering technique when I was working for a firm making for Linely. He wanted a completely hidden drawer within a front rail but there was no opportunity to chop the rail around as you did. The chap that made the piece...

Here's some I did on a Japanese floor lamp a few years ago: Not too difficult :D - Rob

That would still leave you with a 'shadow gap' once the knife cut was cleaned up. There's almost no gap in Derek's drawer but veneering is along the right lines. It can be done to leave a barely perceptible gap like Derek's...but how? :lol: - Rob

Somebody was getting 'warm' on p1 of this thread. No names, no pack drill :D - Rob

Nope. It's not the drawer in itself but the way the grain runs seamlessly without a break from the rail into the drawer front. It's clever but easy when Derek shows how it's done - Rob

I know how the front was done as I saw someone do the same sort of drawer construction on a piece for David Linley. However, I'll stay quiet :lol: - Rob

Wot Mike said. There's a project(s) in there waiting to get out and when you know what it is, that piece of oak will be perfect for the job. In the meantime, I'd remove all the sapwood as the bugs n'beasties do like to dine out it it and having finished with the sap, they may well start on the...

Some while ago Derek Jones, late of F&C notoriety, published some InstaG pics of a beautiful Japanese style tool box, superbly made in premium, quarter sawn Bog Oak. I simply couldn't see the point...it's a tool box! - Rob

I think that's what I'd use as well. I found that neat Osmo is a bit 'gloopy' so it's worth thinning it a little with a dash of white spirit. Wax over Osmo gives a great finish and it's pretty much 'bullet proof' so should be able to withstand fair wear n'tear - Rob

Agreed, but they're too damn heavy! It's worth having a few 'T' bars to put on the bench, but you can also get so much pressure behind them that the job will distort alarmingly...I've witnessed it happening!! I have a couple of single handed Ax cramps and the same in the Bessey variety, both...

If you were to throw 5 woodworkers into a closed room with the single task of 'discuss sharpening' at the end of an hour, having lit the blue touchpaper, they'd probably emerge with 1000+ variations on the theme. There's no right or wrong answer and you need to find, usually by trial and error...

Rubber bands are good IMO but don't really have enough strength in them to pull up a joint. A better way is to get hold of an old cycle inner tube and cut it into strips about 12mm wide, which can then be wrapped round the box (or whatever) and pulled progressively tighter. I use this method...