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You're right in that they are not the same. However, I'm quite happy to enhance my accuracy - with which I am content - with precision. It's a case of two different things complementing each other.

I work on the premise that I need all the help I can get, therefore the precision offered by the knife, with the marking subsequently emphasised by running a well sharpened pencil in it, is my default. And once the habit is formed, it is hardly time consuming. I'm happy to use just pencil when...

6" combination square marking knife Veritas marking gauge longish straight edge low angle jack or No 5 jack plane low angle block plane crosscut and rip cut back saws sharpening guide (splash out on the Lie Neilsen if you can afford it) chisels (3/8, 1/2, 3/4) plough plane (because you can do...

Custard, thanks for pointing out the clarity of the writing. It was remiss of me not to mention it. I suppose I just take it for granted now that I've got used to it. Hayward and the other contributors do write with a great clarity and strip everything down to that which needs communicating...

For those who have had a look at Vols I and II of this series, you have a good idea of what to expect. This volume (running from pages 890 to 1166) is concerned with all aspects of woodworking joints. It is based on an original book by Charles Hayward called Woodwork Joints but the content has...

I ought to make it clear that I don't object in the least to tools like these being sold at such prices (as long as they are indeed of high quality) and I accept fully your art-related sentiment and if folk find satisfaction in owning such things then I genuinely wish them well. As it happens I...

... before you have a look at this: https://www.dictum.com/en/tools/woodwor ... 97_1_12_12 How much??? For a marking knife? Mind you for a couple of bob more you can get a hammer: https://www.dictum.com/en/tools/woodwor ... 97_1_12_12 which at least puts a bit more in your hand.

I think I've got the answer: if the door to your workshop is indoors, the little plane will make the ultimate door knocker. Alternatively you could make a little glass fronted box screwed to an outside door and use it as your sign in much the same way as the barber uses a pole.

It's funny that you mention that. An American chap was featured in a magazine (Furniture and Cabinet Making if memory serves) and he's done just that: a one third scale model of the Anarchist's Toolchest with mini versions of all the tools to go in it. It was brilliantly executed but you do...

I mean this: https://www.classichandtools.com/acatal ... ritas.html Hats off to Veritas for making it but apart from being something that your girlfriend might want to borrow to shave her legs, what's if for? Tip top key ring thing maybe?

Thanks Custard, that was the sort of stuff I was hoping for. I like the idea of drawing the joints out full sized as that really will help with visualising it. I might have some slightly thinner pieces nearer to 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" so I could use them and save the 1 7/8" stuff for something...

Good Morning All, my intended project for the festive season is to build a smallish - about 3' or 3' 6" by about 2' desk for my computer. The legs will be fairly sturdy at about 1 7/8" x 1 7/8". The rails are likely to be 4" - 5 " wide and 1" thíck. All the recent discussion about tenons got...

I think there's probably a lot in that. Planing is only a means to an end, as of course is sharpening. The professional, who needs to get to the finished object as quickly as possible, needs to get a working technique under his belt and is perhaps not inclined to analyse it too much as long as...

Andy, does that mean that the Veritas plough plane - which also does T & G and most recently beading - is "officially" a combination plane? If not, I wonder which functions they would have to add to it for it to be regarded as one. Andy.

I've just tried the Forstner bit method (as per Derek's link). For the pilot hole I used the smallest bit I had which looked to be around 1 mm. I then took my smallest Forstner bit at 12mm and set the gauge a bit wider (subsequent measuring showed it to be 15 mm). The key thing seems to be...

Hi Derek, that is as I thought. Your point about leaving around 1/32" either side led me to a new (to me) idea: it's conventional to set the mortice gauge to the width of the chisel but if one were to use a forstner bit as per the clip, one could set it to the diameter of the bit plus 1/16"...

I accept that fully and while I'm happy that I can get smaller mortices right with a chisel most of the time, I still have problems keeping bang on track with very deep ones, so the drilling technique looks like a good alternative in such cases. One day though I'll be able to knock out a 4"...

I tried this yesterday on some scraps and am now a convert. I couldn't believe how quick and easy it is. For anybody else thinking of giving it a go I would suggest practising on scrap first so as to learn how to read the grain after the test chop. It quickly becomes clear where you need to...

Derek, now that looks like really good fun. I'll give it a bash this evening. I've rejected the idea of drilling out mortices thus far for fear of wandering from the vertical but using the eggbeater for the pilot hole would deal with that. Two questions though: if, say, you are doing a 3/8"...