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can you not but the timber at the width that you want? Paying a bit more is probably cheaper than a cheap saw for 1 job.

I was looking the other night and the small inverter one from rtech gets a good review. Think it was £175. Used can be a good buy on many things, but if you don't know what you are looking at it is hard to judge. I do respect the knowledge of r tech.

I seem to recall that the filters work more efficiently when blocked to some degree but I dont know whether that is correct. (efficiently in terms or particle size filtered out rather than other meanings of the word)

Consider cleaning them when you empty the camvac. If that is too often, do it every other time. I think that it is only a matter of blowing out the filter anyway isn't it.

Is it limed oak rather than bleached?

there are many courses and guides so do have a look. you could do a lot worse than get some simple softwood from a builders merchant. 2x2, 3x3, whatever. get it from square to round, over and over. Fence posts, new or old are good too for practice. You probably wont get the greatest finish on...

I have turned green wood with carbide. I haven't really given it much thought. I have gone from carbide to sandpaper and not noticed any more tear out than with any other blanks. Try on a bit of firewood, see how you get on. Generally with green turning though, people rough out the items to be...

My mate calls it Orse Chestnut. He would probably sell you a bit if it helps.

could you make or buy a very small diameter holesaw or plug cutter and remove the pin that way?

think "tree" is needed with this one for normal usage.

does foxglove tree count?

I wouldn't underestimate how wet they will be when they arrive, but they do dry fairly quickly. I would leave them bare for a few months before painting. I second about keeping the bottoms clear of soil.

whenever I have had to make an insurance claim (not tools), the insurance company always wanted proof of ownership. a receipt is ideal, but failing that photos with the items in question have been sufficient, even if it is in the background. they have always been reasonable with me, they have...

just hack at it? I will start with that. the task today was taking it down so hopefully it isnt as bad as when I first looked.

I bought a second hand greenhouse. the previous owner had siliconed the roof glass in which made it a nightmare to remove but I got it out in the end. I want to strip it all off before I reassemble it. Any tricks for doing so? I presume that on the glass I need to get a scraper blade and use...

I have a well tuned bandsaw, tooth count on blade is correct- could be sharper but... I took it slowly and the end result was fine. I had to slice an inch and a bit board x 12" off a 3" thick and I can honestly say that I didn't enjoy a single second of that exercise. It was English walnut so...

Needs a coat of finish yet but it is cfortable to sit in. I made a rod for making the next one which I think (with the knowledge of how it goes together) will save an hour or more.

It is external oak. Sanded to 120. Previously unfinished but was a wine barrel. I don't mind it silvering but would like to brighten it up for a year or two. Covering it over winter is a good idea.

I know that pure tung oil offers no UV protection, but if I apply it to exterior timber what does this mean in practice? Will it offer a level of water resistance to the timber, but the timber itself will still fade and or silver with exposure to the sun? What will happen to the oil itself after...

it doesn't sound like it is suitable for what I am wanting. an oil varnish may be easier all round (or a home-brew wipe on version)