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And OT but these are the many reasons in another thread where I suggested alternatives rather than trying to use one in an apartment bedroom workshop.

I may be wrong, but I would only call that scorched rather than shou sugi ban. It looks good, but I thought the latter would have a much deeper burn, so as to look crocodilian almost.

Like so many things, I suspect the difference between done well/properly and that recreated on daytime TV or YouTube is as different as night and day.

Welcome by the way. I wouldn't worry that much about spares, if you can separate it, then a good cleaning may resolve it for next time.

I would start off by getting some penetrating oil in there if you can (not wd40). I am not familiar with that specific lathe but any hairline gap or potential gap is worth a try. It is likely stuck with friction, may not be actual rust even.

Snoozed and lost! Only a couple of quid more elsewhere though.

I was watching something on YouTube about leather working. Is the 1st project the mould? the bag looks like you have a good few projects worth of experience.

an FAQ section may work, but as a complete novice, you probably want guiding through your specific issue. I dont think that what we have is that unapproachable. It tends to mirror how the person approaches the forum. If they say that they dont know what they are talking about and needs help...

I could do with a blade or two for my ts55. Anybody got anything before I buy new? Ideally looking for something for general purpose and something for ripping solid wood. I have the standard issue 48t which needs sharpening, may even consider a backup for that.

Well I know that to buy items, you specify what you want in a contract, and if you don't get what has been agreed then you have a remedy. Reading back, when I used the word "you", I was not specifically referring to you who innocently bought an item from a retailer, and I was meaning the party...

I think (and it is easy for me to say rather than do!) that I would go in a different direction and avoid use of the router and circular saw altogether. The tasks that I would dislike doing by hand are deep ripping of boards (making 2 thinner boards) and thicknessing. A router or circular saw is...

sometimes this happens- people register to ask a question. They can see the answers without logging on and may have no interest beyond the one thing that they have asked.

I wonder it it is some form of parallelogram fence. this is very old, but half way down there is some description. It lost me a bit, but search for "parallelogram" http://www.festoolownersgroup.com/CoppermineMain/albums/Manuals/Festool_MFT_-_Secrets_Unveiled.pdf

Can I ask how you engrave the mirrors?

It is what it is. Thanks but no thanks, not worth falling out over. Onwards and upwards

Some must be, there was a news article about the delays at the port of Felixstowe and delays generally the other day. Some of the delays are being caused by the empty containers waiting to go back.

Is it veneered? I would try Capital Crispin if so.

I haven't used those. I did use az carbide in the usa for some in the past which were fine (I haven't used enough to form an opinion of which are best, but they performed as I expected). I think they now have a UK agent. My hesitation with bang good for this insert would be that it would be a...

An aside to the OP, is wire wool an advantage over scotchbrite on anything? I have the mirka version which has one as fine as (I think) 1500 grit? For a finer buff/burnish than that, I would sometimes use either a brown paper bag or a handful of fine shavings (particularly when turning).

Could it be a way of locking the rail to crosscut in a specific position on a mft top. Much like you would use a fence and flag stop, but before they were available.