Search results

Interesting - I'm not a plane geek, but there were various makers in England who made such planes, including the economy brands 'Acorn' 'Dronfield' and 'Chapman' all made in the Dronfield area near where I live (it's on the outskirts of Sheffield). The blade sounds the most interesting: 'cast...

good advice adrspach many axes can even be shaped with a good file I must confess to using a power grinder for that stage - but keep the steel cool - dipping, damp cloth, keep it moving etc some of the older Kent pattern may be 'bitted' - ie hand forged and with a sandwich of wrought iron...

Exactly -- good fellow.

I'd definitely go with the old Kent (or Yorkshire) small axe /hatchet - used to be very common for about 5% of the price of an undoubtedly fine new Swedish axe - in flea-markets etc. I think the flexcuts were, at least initially, made from hacksaw blade material - it used to be very common in...

I think Deema is right, but this level of surface porosity can be a sign of a particularly poor casting, even for cast iron. It is often a problem with very complex castings like an engine block and there are commercial solutions a bit like the superglue suggested above, but first using a vacuum...

Patsy, Pemuvar, Lewin, Rapier - all being quite inventive, often using light alloys (surplus after melting down those Spitfires?). But all doomed - or did they last long enough to make a profit? - I doubt it. Could do with their own thread or two. And who chose the name Patsy? Reminds me of a...

You need a metallurgist (not me, but I'll have a go) - what kind of rust? - if light rust evenly coating surface then almost sounds like it could be made of low carbon (mild) steel, which does this quickly - if, on the other hand the rust is in spots/flecks then even though cleaned/waxed/lapped...

I pass no final judgement - but a couple of 'what do you think?' -- regarding Rapier - their fairly common spokeshave is quite interesting - made like an adjustable wooden shave (ie blade flat to wood) - not like Stanley, Record and many others - I tried one - seemed nice in use, good blade...

One other point:- I don't have a pillar drill as such, but do have a vertical stand with base to use the drill in - in fact I now have 2 - one really solid cast iron and steel one by Record which only holds a drill by the standard collar behind the chuck - everything's well-built about this, but...

Maybe I'll be shooed away, but I'm going to ask about electric drills on the hand tool forum. I do like my hand drills - the brace and the 'eggbeater' but if there's a pile of similar holes to drill, I go electric - second generation cordless are pretty good, but I like a corded drill if in the...

Thanks re the alufoil - I'll try it. Anyone use those rubber blocks?

More questions than answers:- After a scrape as suggested, and an abrasive paper, I finish off with a Garryflex block (rubber loaded with emery-type grit) - medium grit - which gives a nice dull and un-scratchy finish quite speedily - anyone else use these? Any longer term problems? After that...

wear a shower cap (sorry) more seriously, they are fiddly, but sure you have the matching rule?

You're right, but the trad European system of craft progress has one going out on a journey to get those day jobs (or typically longer than a day) in that space between apprenticeship and maitre/meister/master-craftsman (mester here in Sheffield) and in Germany and France it was expected by the...

Last year I met a young Austrian man doing his travelling 'Journeyman' time - he was in the square in a town in the Welsh Marches looking for work and accommodation. Unfortunately I was on holiday and had no leads for him. he was wearing the traditional white shirt and moleskin suit with...

!!

Pestle looks good -- Except --- that fairly pointed handle end with a loop as noted - when you use a pestle and mortar you push down on the end with your palm (see Lee Valley handle end) - so I favour cosh for fish or heads - fortunately looks unused

Sounds like they will be very much a log saw if sharpened like this (for big logs) - or at least for very thick beams. "Three teeth rule " is good for most saws, but when sharpened/set like this might need more. Those starter teeth at the end will help.

Yes - I always assumed that M teeth had one each way on each M. I have a couple of similar looking saws, (farmers/docking or greenwood) but 'American' tooth pattern (3 teeth between each gullet) - definitely fleam and alternate set. Work well, but I tend to use a bow saw for those jobs.

Good replies from Andy and Cheshire - totally agree. Long history of similar manufacture, much factoring, outwork etc, and for a long time the Sheffield price lists ruled so same list price from different firms. To add to this: there were often multiple variants (at different list price) of...