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look like olive trees?? - you harvesting at the same time?

ozz - not sure, probably bark off, may even make a composite of the different pieces. oh and re the side story, here's the tree surgeon, she's a tall woman so you can scale the ash tree wet, dark December afternoon

Yes - nice question - I live near Sheffield city centre - a tree filled city, - great, but some get too big for gardens (just watching a tree surgeon out the back window - she's fully harnessed, but so daring and skilled - doing a great job taming a giant ash) - especially Leyland cypress -...

S&S - thanks for confirming on the Chinese makers, I thought as much - JCB make a big nationalistic play on how British they are (fair enough for many of their diggers etc) but then use their branding to import all sorts of tools, clothing etc. Bit like the Ineos guy with his UKIP/Brexit line...

and there's probably a long list of grinding tool makers, saw sharpeners, etc to keep all those machines and their woodworkers in operation. sorry, Miles, it's a great idea of yours -- maybe eliminate those as well? a separate list for those and another for the British power tools?

You can put 'just about anything' into a powder metal, but if it's the HIPped version (as opposed to cold pressed/sintered) which it will be for turning tools etc then most gas atomised steel powder-makers wouldn't let lead near their plant for fear of ruining the next batches. There is a...

Are you only counting stationary machines? Some variants of the electric power tools of Bridges, Black and Decker UK, Tarplaner's maker, some Wolf powertool, Makita Telford probably others are stationary. also some Stanley products were bench mounted drills etc.

Macintire & Christopher, London

There'll be no significant lead in the steel, they're probably just covering themselves regarding the varnish on the handle? Even fresh lumber/timber can have some lead, especially if grown near a highway. I once got stopped by officious French customs with some metal which they confiscated...

I'm not knowledgeable about machinery, but I do try to know as much as poss about vices/vises (no sniggering at the back, please) - J Parkinson (later and sons) of Shipley, the big vise player before WWI, made a huge range of machinery, mostly metal work but I think one or two for wood. Another...

I think Axminster, although importing a vast proportion of its offers, is slowly making more and more in UK and might now or soon be included in list?? This trend to be encouraged, anyway.

Do you mean current or historical? Looks like historical - the number must be huge if you include machine makers who maybe just made a tool or two for wood, but otherwise agricultural, factory tools or metal machines, especially nineteenth cent. One classic for a starter - Holtzapfel.

I agree with the above answers, but while on the topic I'd like to know people's opinion on the best epoxy for repair of a chipped casting - cosmetic really (part of a vice casting - cast iron) before painting. Cosmetic but I'd like it to be best poss (I know I could weld or braze fill but this...

Never see it mentioned, but I used an eclipse jig many years ago and that central wheel always seemed to wear a groove in the stone - anyone else see this? especially in softer stones (many waterstones) - not so easy to move around the stone as freehand. Not saying that my freehand is perfect...

I promise not to. But I also thank DW for his contributions - don't agree with every word, of course, but cogently explained. Back to nabs - your smallworkshop website is becoming a very good resource -- if you ever need to give it up, make sure you pass the history bits to someone like Hawley...

Brilliant, nabs. I do admire the way you go into the history of a tool on your website. I couldn't find the link just now, but there is a guy from the Netherlands (?) who seems to organise his holidays around researching old whetstone quarries, and then making and testing his new stone made...

trev -- the coachwork on that beats a Rolls any day but looks like you could do a better job of feeding your motive power, however I do like your titfer tony and ntat -- I don't watch vids much but those are great, thanks

very thin fretsaw blades - go donwn in size to half a human hair in thickness Thanks Droog - I actually have some for my piercing saw, was in the knife-blade mindset - thinking scalpels or similar.

Depends on life requirement - I see why you use MDF, but, unless the edge/lip is pretty rigid and the books are very light, looks great to start when painted, but it will slowly bend over the years, especially if it ever gets too humid. I'd go with tyreman's suggestion as long as the span is...

for the ignorant ----- what are jewellers' blades??