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Going back to Dokkodo’s original post, I wonder whether the money might be better spent on a few lessons with an experienced turner? While sharp tools are essential, not feeling fully ‘in command’ sounds more like technique than tool sharpness. Just a thought.

The comparisons need sorting out. He is comparing the strength of one glue joint with the strength of a different glue joint of the same area. In this comparison the end grain - end grain joint is stronger. A woodworker compares the strength of a glued up piece with the strength of a solid...

You don’t have to own a lathe - just find your local wood turning club. Someone there would do the job easily.

If there is water in the pan then the temperature will not go significantly above 100 degrees C. The pan, being a good conductor, transfers heat to the water and remains the same temperature as the water inside it - maximum 100 degrees C.

Does the OP mean the snipe? There is what looks like a groove much nearer the end. Could that be what is meant?

Problem with a ring centre is that it takes a light touch with the tool. A beginner might not have that. I’d go for a stebcentre every time.

Solder the original Allen key into the original Allen screw (both of which originally worked) and that should solve the problem. (I think).

How would you know that she actually turned up?

Screw wax, *** wax? Have we gone ‘off topic’?:rolleyes:;)

Not quite - unless I’ve misunderstood the essence of dogging.;)

Looks like flh801978 has just found his calling in life! 😂 This is just a thought and is probably daft but M18 x 1.5 is very close to 3/4 x 16 tpi. There couldn't have bee a measuring error could there?

It’s natures way of kidding us that we still take the same size as when the tape was new!;);)

Thanks Fergie. It sounds like a redundant feature of the vfd which is a later addition to the lathe. Bob

Fergie 307 - You mention that the jog facility is very useful. I have this on my wood turning lathe but don’t know what to use it for. Would you mind explaining how it is useful? Bob:unsure:

Thanks Mark. I’ll try it sometime. Bob

Mark, have you actually used the method you describe? That's the way I would use ammonia to fume oak, but I've never heard of using hydrogen peroxide that way. Is this a technique I've missed?

Is it possible to leave the broken rod in place and join the two pieces of stick by drilling a series of small holes (2-3mm) in the wood around the rod, then using thin metal dowels to hold the two parts together?

+1 spalted beech. It has the characteristic beech ‘flecks’.

It’s beautiful - well done!

If you work in inches it’s between 11 and 12mm… Love it!!