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Thank you Peter. Food for thought there and I will try it and do some test panels using it against the PVA. Bleed through isn't much of an issue as I use pulp backed veneers but staining of veneers can be an issue as with PVA it can ruin the finish, not that it's happened on any I've done yet...

The better open time’s a good thing for vacuum pressing. Never had any issues with plywood in terms of swelling causing me issues when veneering though.

Thanks Peter. What is it about UF glues you prefer for veneer work? I’ve used them for laminating and some joinery but like using one pack pva glues for veneering ( I guess it’s what I’m most used to) although I’ve tried fish glues in the past for smaller jobs.

Looking for some feedback amongst the veneering specialists. I've usually used a filtered D3 PVA veneer when using my vacuum press for larger panels but just wondering if anyone has tried the Titebond Cold Press glue and if so, what it was like? My workshop isn't presently heated and coming up...

Bosch seem to have the best deals on these and their professional range is really quite good. I'd be looking to one of those personally as vfm is very good and quality is good enough for serious work.

Plus one for Poly X. Start by rubbing in several thin coats hard, leave overnight and then apply a thicker coat more lightly and don’t wipe off excess completely. It’ll dry to provide a deep hardwearing finish. For more grain contrast and deeper colour I often start with a few coats of liberon...

A pair of my RFC Cheviots which a chap drove almost 600 miles to pick up! 90lbs per cab. Brich ply cabs, American Black Walnut veneer with solud Walnut mitred frame into which a grille frame fits, secured by neodimium magnets bonded into front baffle beneath veneer. Liberon fine finishing oil...

For the money I’ve found Shark pro and ultimate blades to be excellent and they do some serious work before needing sharpening, a testament to the quality of the carbide teeth ( possibly a c3 spec?). Outperformed axminster premium professional blades I’ve had and last ages. Sharpening them...

Acf50 works well, applied with a mild scourer. It chemically reduces rust and I keep some of my tools lightly coated using a rag with a squirt of acf50 on it. Great stuff for preservation of ferrous metals in damp spaces. Renaissance wax I’ve used for years. I mainly use it for final...

I'd recommend either the Axminster hobby table saw or the charnwood W650 single phase bench saw. More money than you want to spend but they're quieter and more useful than the contractors saws and importantly offer far better precision. The trouble with most contractor's saws is both noise and...

I go for power and reliability and built quality when it comes to jigsaws. I wouldn't dream of spending Festool money for a non precision tool. I like and currently use a Makita barrel bodied 4351 corded jigsaw which I find very good.

Timber prices have gone up hugely across the board post-lockdown. Even with a trade account, I'm paying north of £120 per sheet for 18mm/3/4 inch grade BB birch ply, which was £87 just 18 months ago. My last order set me back close on £1000. A few weeks ago, I had to source some 4"x2" PLR...

There's a fair few of us locally I think John (y)

If not already in your arsenal, a track saw is an inexpensive and surprisingly useful too. Despite having a reasonably sized bench saw which I can rip full sheets down in, it's more convenient sometimes to use the track-saw and it's very accurate and quick. The other tool I have which I bought...

I've used the 305mm dewalt double bevel electric sliding mitresaws and found them very good.

I've been using a variety of blades for my bench saw in a professional workshop for a good 4 years now, including Axminster axcalibre premium TCT 60T and Shark Ultra 80T blades amongst a few others from Bosch and similar budget end ones, and they've been sharpened a few times now and probably in...

I had the same dilemma but ended up buying a Makita Biscuit joiner and some decent quality biscuits (from Rutlands). There's no doubt, done with care that biscuits do add strength but they're not in the same league as say mitre tongue jointing which I would normally use where greater strength...

Really great post Custard, thank you for posting. I can only accommodate a small table thicknesser in my 'shop and rely on a fine tooth TCT bladed table saw and sharp hand plane to do any edge jointing I need. I can learn a lot from what you've posted and look forward to putting it into practice.

Hi from Dursley! New to the site myself and good to see another local craftsman. I may well be in touch at some point as there's the odd small scale cnc projects I occasionally need assistance with (y)

Hi All I'm Paul, a loudspeaker designer and manufacturer from Dursley in Gloucestershire, where I have a humble workshop where I hand craft loudspeaker enclosures of my own design from small stand mounts to giant corner speakers in hand veneered and finished Birch Ply and hardwoods. It's a...