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For a workbench I'd edge it in Beech or Maple, but thicker than 10mm. Min 25mm or thicker to allow the face of a vice to be cut it flush with the edge. Kiln dried Oak would be fine too. If you already have some Oak planks then planing those flat and smooth might be your easiest bet.

We all did I hope!

I don't really claim anything definitive except that for my purposes, clean fresh cuts on ply surfaces for mitres results in very acceptable strength joints. I did a trial last year on a large panel mitre (36mm thick and over a metre long) and tested it after several days curing and it proved...

Well, I found it of interest anyway and understood exactly what he was getting at. It's not to say such end-grain joints are suitable for every occasion as clearly that is not the case but there were a few points of interest there for anyone interested who hasn't seen it before.

Interesting video which dispels the myth of end grain joints being the weakest way to join timber. There are a few things of note though and often end grain joints are made along the long axis where bending moments or shear may be greater than on the short axis, allied with end grain joints...

My fault, I didn't clarify which one I was comparing initially! Yes, in small quantities, I always buy from Amazon. Every so often I need another small battle to use as the applicator which is principally why I buy the odd small bottle but I get through a lot of glue in a year, possibly a drop...

I recall paying about 45por 55p/litre back in the 90's when living in a remote part of Aberdeenshire and considered that expensive! edit...just looked up my diary and actually it was 25p

It will always be dearer to buy small amounts from places with flat rate postage like this but for the Cold Press glue in 3.8 litres it was the cheapest I could find. Amazon is charging £57 delivered. I paid £10 LESS delivered from Intertools ;). Amazon do better rates for TB2 and TB3 but not...

Stunning piece of work (y)

Just bought some cold press TB way cheaper than anywhere else from Interhire Power Tools: https://www.intertoolsonline.co.uk/search.php?query=pva&page=1 I think as there's such a variation, either some traders are being greedy and simply hiking prices as inflation rises rather than selling at...

I do the same. Have my sheets quarter or half cut but it's the assembly space that is premium for me rather than the cutting space. I rarely need anything longer than 1.2m and carry a stock of at least a few dozen quarter sheets (1.2 x 0.6m).

Not practical. If you operate in a compact shop as I do (perhaps 12ft x 11ft) the saw and assembly bench are sacrosanct so I couldn't get something like that in. I have a simpler solution. Once my cutting list is done and my materials all cut, I place a large MDF sheet over my saw bench...

I've had no problems sourcing Titebond but there can be gaps in supply for some of their products. I substituted Everbuild 502 (D3) white pva for titebond II a few years ago and it's every bit as good. One thing I note about TBII and that's it and TBIII have relatively short shelf lives. I...

You won't find (as a general rule) furniture quality Birch Ply at any of the DIY stores or from most builder's merchants. They tend to trade in structural external (WBP) and interior cladding ply for the building trade. There's be a semi-local timber supplier in most urbanised areas where you...

Sounds good. I mainly use veneers which Reliance Veneers pulp back for me to stabilise them, so bleed through's rarely an issue. Could be the ideal glue for the vacuum press. I lightly tape around the edges to increase resistance to creep as the workpiece is fed into the vacuum bag, leaving...

That’s ok, I filter the air 😆

Thanks Peter. Truth be told, on quite an important commission and don't want to experiment with different glues for this one so will stick with what I know in the PVA and buy some UF glue to use on a trial, instead of a customer's workpiece! If it works out better, I'll make the switch.

I keep a stock of ordinary HB pencils and a sharpener for rough marking and use an inexpensive bright orange (otherwise I'd lose it!) Rotring Tikki mechanical 0.7mm pencil. The leads snap frequently but I don't care as they can be bought by the hundred for very little money and I keep a good...

Thanks Roy, that's a great spot and I may well give these a go myself. Yes, I tend to go belts and braces on most joints myself but admit the mitres I use are generally for very small enclosures and not under much stress.

With modern glues I think it's less important to reinforce some mitred joints as long as it's not a high stress application with cantilever forces acting on one or both sides. I've used plain mitre joints in plywood without any reinforcement and all have been fine and none have so far failed...