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My workshop is about 130ft2 and was equipped with 4 fluorescent 4ft lamps on two double battens when I took it over. Whilst replacing the starters as they were playing up I looked at the electricity consumption as well as the lighting and it was a no brainer to replace those with two 4ft LED...

Oils are fine but without resin hardeners will require frequent top ups to the finish to keep them good. They're not as durable for applications like stocks in the field which is why most timber stocks are varnished. Fine shotgun stocks are not knocked around as much as rifles and tend to...

I've had the W650 a few years now and the only reason I didn't go down the used route as above was at the time there wasn't enough room to accommodate something that wide in my old workshop. I did consider the W629 but much preferred the W650 which just seemed slightly better spec'd to what I...

I agree with you there. Once I tried Liberon FF Oil years ago, I never really looked back. I guess if falls into "Danish Oil" category although I find the end result better than most other D/O's I've used. Osmo Poly-X clear is the only other finish I use these days

Another vote for Osmo Oil. If I want greater contrast and colour in the grain then I use Liberon Fine Finishing Oil which really makes the grain pop. Otherwise I use clear Osmo Poly-X. Of the water based ones, I can vouch for General Finishes Top Coat which is very good. The main difference...

I have a few cheap Starrett squares, genuine Starrett items but made inexpensively and more importantly are square! They decided to avoid being ripped off by cheap chinese imitations, they'd simply put a cheap range to market and control quality to maintain reputation and have succeeded. I...

Of the two, the Laguna Fusion 3 would be my choice. I wouldn't write off all Chinese machines either. Some are much better than others. I have a Charnwood W650 in my professional 'shop in daily use and it's been a good bit of kit with a few corners cut in things like quality of fasteners...

I have a collection of calipers and gauges which I use but the most often used are my Moore and Wright 150mm digital verniers. As I mainly use them for checking thicknesses, depth of cuts and for tool set up, they don't need to be any larger. Battery will suffer in colder months but I haven't...

Personally I'd T&G as advised above. Less chance for gaps to appear and moisture to penetrate. You can always run vertical strips over the corners to further prevent moisture penetration and run a bead of silicone down the inside of each sealing strip or better still buy some pressure treated...

I think that little things matter. The Laguna uses more precise and better finished arbor raise and lower controls and uses a 2:1 gearbox for smoother operation (although the Charnwood one is very solid). It's dust collection isn't an afterthought and is far better designed and implemented...

Fwiw my tuppenceworth given the OP’s choice would be the laguna 3 all day long. The other saws are more expensive than but no better than the much cheaper Charnwood W650. I looked at those but given some user feedback bought a W650 which seems to have fewer issues bar similarly poor dust...

I’d echo the comments above. Standard pulp or paper backed 0.6mm would be fine. I would caution against titebond cold press having just tried it. As it doesnt sell strongly nor has a manufacture or use by stamped on it you risk buying old stock as happened to me. It had stiff lumps in the...

Well, sorry for having the affrontary to hold an opinion which obviously doesn't align with yours! Where, in your wildest imagination did I claim to ignore pollution? Utter and complete nonsense. As for pollution, be specific if you level such accusations and don't try and fob me off with...

As I said, perhaps the topic for another thread and not something I wish to get embroiled with here. For what it's worth there is NO link between what I said and you needing to run out and buy air conditioning nor indeed, a proven link with catalogues even remotely having any affect on climate...

If I cannot find what I want on a webstore quickly, if they just can't be bothered making an easily navigable website, then I don't waste my time with it and go elsewhere. Getting rid of catalogues is all well and good in this digital age but there's often need for me when stock taking in the...

Personally if being painted and you want to work in timber (for the framing anyway) Red Meranti is nice to work with and cheaper than Oak. I'd use that and MRMDF.

I have a very similar one which dates from the mid 1960's. It can be hard with some Marples chisels as they changed stamps quite a bit over the years. My oldest has a water transfer and red badging and I think that's a very early one dating back to the turn of the last century and still going...

That's exactly what I do. I had my doubts when I bought the machine but 18 months in and it's paid for itself, and once everything was squared it's pretty much stayed that way. I've found the sliding carriage alloy rail fixings and fixing method to be a bit sus as it only takes an accidental...

For full sheets I use a plunge/track saw and a 1.4m rail which I simply move down half way through the cut, lined up to pencil marks made prior to cutting. On your own, handling a full sheet of 18mm birch ply is very awkward and something I'd rather do with the tracksaw. My machine can cut...

The W650 is the 10" model. I presently have the original shroud fitted and all gaps taped whilst I refine my wooden version. Basically it's a thin supported timber bin which sits close to the table underside allowing blade tilt with a standard 100mm port opening on one side with a ramp towards...