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If the rebates or slots you need to cut are relatively shallow you can remove the riving knife and cut or file it down a little. I've done just this with mine ant it still serves to provide the safety intended but no need to remove it for cutting shallow rebates. I looked at the SIP and ITech...

If the sections you are cutting are smaller than 70mm deep, I'd echo the comments above and use a smaller diameter blade if thin kerf is called for. Freud are ok but I rate UK made Shark blades better. They sell a 210mm (30mm bore) thin Kerf 40T blade which would be ideal. I started out with a...

God point..of course it's an end grain board for food prep/use. Tung oil or mineral oil then (y)

Osmo Poly-X clear or Liberon Fine Finishing oil would work a treat.

I've frequently finished small box burl veneers using nothing more than building up coats of Liberon fine finishing oil and sanding back after each coat until the grain pores are filled. It requires anywhere between 7 and 10 coats but leaves a superb finish. Left a day between coats and a week...

Just completed a build of my "RFC Rutland" loudspeakers for a new client:

I think whilst the dust collection solution will work with the W629 as described above, having examined the W650, it has become apparent that it may not be as feasible because it uses a different rail mounted trunnion system for motor support (ie is not fixed directly under the table) and there...

Overthinking? Not at all! The Trend T35 IS the Class M unit in question! The ADE220 is a good unit but not everyone has the room for one hence the bin type extractors work well enough...a simple enough solution which combined with a decent air filter works well without breaking the bank.

I simply use an HPA1000 Scheppach unit combined with a workshop air filter (Record AC400) and a Class M Trend dust extractor for portable tools. It does a great job but just doesn't have as much air flow as a HVLP system. Most bench saws are supplied with 100mm exhaust ports sand if the OP...

Illegal to import ply? Not strictly true, surely? I have only been informed that importing Russian sourced ply is banned and then more to do with Russia cutting off the UK and others from its export lists but it's still produced in other Scandinavian and Eastern states including Latvia and...

I've had no problems buying it from my local supplier but maybe I've just been lucky?

Horses for courses. If visual appearance comes more important than structural integrity or for cladding, then there are many alternative ways of achieving this including balance veneering cheaper MDF. If structural integrity comes first along with high strength then the costs have to be past...

Mea Culpa! :ROFLMAO:

I think that you guys in the States have a much wider choice of quality machines, being a significantly larger market. When I started my business 12 years back, I only had budget for a contractor saw so is what I used. Various moves later and I find myself setting up a compact workshop at home...

Not having the stacked dado isn't really a drawback as other means are possible such as a compact router table or even router jig. I manage fine without one, then there's the current safety thinking on the use of dado stacks, agree or not. T slots not being standard for hobby use is no big...

How did you get that to fit under the blade if you don't mind me asking? I'm assuming you removed the whole underside plastic shroud and coupling to the exhaust port?

Wow Ian, that's scary! We moved house to get away from the river passing through our back garden after fretting one too many winters having water levels creeping up too close for comfort. Hope you see that receding soon....

Yes, they're pretty simple pieces of machinery, all things considered.

Have you considered the Axminster AW216S saw? It's less expensive than the W629 and despite not being trade rated (motor isn't on that model) for hobby use it may be all you need and doesn't take up much room, although it is the 8" version feedback on it from users has been mostly positive...

As I already have loads of ACF50, I used that to treat a few odd rust spots starting to appear last autumn and they haven't shown back since. It doesn't just protect the surface, it also stops existing rust dead in it's tracks. The thin film left will get into the pores of the CI and provide...