Search results

I've got this lovely table base and am hoping you lot will be able to help me put a glass top on it to make a coffee table. Q1: What methods can I use to attach the glass? My aesthetic preference is for methods that do not require a hole in the glass. But I am going to get the glass...

I'm about to build a walk-in wardrobe, closely based on one that I've done previously. There are a couple of more complex elements in this one and many of you have already helped on specific elements that I've queried along the way. Now I'm offering up the full model/plan. If there's any...

OK. Getting a bit more up to speed with drawer making history from the 1700s onwards. My original proposal was for drawer sides of 15mm and movento undermounted metal runners, which I'm still happy with. As such I don't need to worry about a groove on the outside for the runners, and only need...

That is awesome. <hurries off to research quadrant and flush slips>

Thanks recipio. Appreciate the advice and sanity check. I'll be using the undermounted blum movento runners. This means that the beauty of the drawers wont be spoilt by the utilitarian metal runners. The blum runners also give a degree of adjustment themselves, giving me a mm or two's grace. I...

Just reopening this one to fix a gap in my knowledge. More than one above have recommended a housing joint in the cabinet sides so that the shelf slides in from behind, and I'd like to understand in what situations such a construction is preferred. For example, in my case the sides of the...

Please could you elaborate a bit. Some of the complexity I'm doing conciously because of a benefit (e.g. dovetails = strength and beauty). But there's probably a lot that I'm not aware of that's unnecesarily complex.

False front hopefully isn't necessary in this case because I've got 'fascias' (not sure what to call them) on the sides of the cabinet. So I can make the drawer sides flush with the edge of the draw fronts, and the gap due to the runner is hidden by the fascia. - Just realised I haven't posted a...

I watched the vid after robgul mentioned it. To be fair to all above, the Axminster guy was responding to a question about 3/8 collets. And it was these that he was suggesting were phased out some years ago because they are unnecessary over and above 1/4 and 1/2 inches. Almost within the same...

@recipio Re: profile and scribe for the muntin. Are you suggesting the the muntin doesn't just sit below, but that the bottom is split into two parts, sitting in a groove either side of the muntin? Like the 'in the old days' construction that @Cabinetman refers to in his point 3 above?

Oh - bottoms aren't glued? In the meantime - I've spoken to the hardwood store, and actually if I buy a sheet of veneer, a sheet of heat activated glue and some wpb ply it might not be so much more expensive (though I've still got to run the numbers). @recipio The hanging part of the wardrobe...

I've just bought a second hand router that comes with 1/2 and 1/4 inch collets. I've got a handful of bits all 8mm: Leigh dovetail kit (2 bits), and a pack of 5 from Lidl The 8mm collet for the new router is £30 which is about the value of the existing bits (not all of which I use). Is it...

Sorry - yes 140mm high. I don't think I mind too much about assembly all in one go (he says never having made a drawer before). I was kinda thinking that the drawer bottom would actually help keep everything square during glue up. I'm going to be using Blum movento runners, so they'll do the...

Thanks @Cabinetman ,though the base is 6mm mdf not ply.

Further questions: 1) Do I need to leave some extra space in the groove to allow for the mdf drawer bottom to expand with humidity/temp? If so, how much extra do I need to allow in total in each direction? 2) does a muntin deserve a particular joint like a mortise and tenon, or would it be...

Oh! Hold on. I've not seen it like that before @Cabinetman! You're seeing it as three units: one on the far right - one on the far left - and one across the top. Like stone henge, as you say. But until today I've always been seeing it at three cabinets wide by two high - six in total. Even...

Hi all, I'm designing some drawers for my wardrobe - about 800mm x 500mm x 140mm deep. The sides and back will be made from 15mm thick solid walnut, front from 19mm walnut, and the base from 6mm veneered mdf. How deep should I router the channel in the sides, front and back to slide the drawer...

Hi all, I'm designing a walk in wardrobe which will look something like this: As you can see, there's some shelving units starting about 2m high. I had originally designed these to be built as separate carcasses from the 'base' units. But I've just found out that I can get my walnut veneered...

Really pragmatic advice. I had been feeling like I was getting lost in the detail so had been anyway moving towards normal M&T. These last couple of comments have sealed it for me. This piece of furniture will be built into a house that has been fully renovated. So hopefully it'll be a...

Thank you - not too late to the party. I'm still making a seemingly infinite number of tweaks in the sketch up model so haven't even ordered any timber yet. I was wondering why no one had suggested an M&T mitred joint (though the paul sellers clip above is close). I was starting to assume that...