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I like the horizontally mounted vice... I've been playing with the idea of doing something similar with a spare cast iron record vice for some time, I may just give it a go at some point (seen as I have an excess of benches and vices).

Ahhhhh, I see (and probably would have without clarification if I'd read more carefully initially)... Yeah trying to cut the internals out of that would be a nightmare. You'd probably be better off building something from scratch tbh, depending on materials prices.

I can see how it happens to tools, but I still don't see how a grinder becomes part of a normal sharpening process... Rather than something that sits in the corner gathering dust for most of the time (the fact that you persisted with a belt sander for some time before getting a purpose built...

Before replacing the motor, you might want to look at getting a phase converter... there's quite a few threads on them.

I can't be the only woodworker out there who doesn't have a grinding wheel right? I don't get all of this "off the wheel" stuff, I've never come across a way to damage a chisel or plane iron (used properly) so badly that I couldn't get back to a decent edge with a coarse stone. In fact I've...

I have an idea of how you would go about shortening that unit... Remove the centre draw and chop 1' out of the middle, then match the two sides up and screw MDF sheets to the top, the bottom of the draws and each shelf. If it's 16mm mdf and the timber is 1" I'd aim to use 30mm screws (a line of...

They're still playing at it compared to Ken Hawley (who when I met him was nice enough to show me the part (majority) of the collection that's in storage at Kelham Island)... Let that be a warning to everyone who jokes about expanding plane cabinets... You'll end up having to convince someone to...

Jacob, I actually have a situation in which it can be useful to have a flat bevel (none of this primary & secondary nonsense)... if you flip your chisel over and use it bevel down (I do this fairly often when tidying up stray fibers at the bottom internal corners of stopped rebates, mortices and...

Yes and no, if you asked a dozen different joiners/carpenters to make/replace their bench, I'd be willing to put money on it that none of them would look the same and that they would probably look nothing like the benches that are now popular amongst hobbyists either... In fact I'd be willing to...

Mainly PVA, I have lots of random containers full of Wurth D4 PVA, which was made freely available to me by work who were using a pallet of 25kg drums of it each month. I would use hide glue, but it's really rather faffy, and I don't really need the benefits that it confers. I also use West...

That was my impression too, in fact I was under the impression that draw boring was originally a technique for building frames in green wood, pulling the shoulders of the tennon tight to the mortice so the shrinkage as the wood dried eventually locked the joint.

You missed the point... The discussion is about whether craftspeople are considered to be in the Manufacturing and Process or Creative sectors when it comes to bureaucratic issues related to commerce. If you're not selling your work, it's not commercial and thus wholly outside the scope of the...

I know of somewhere that has some Western Red Cedar surplus that's going cheap in various sizes, if that's of any interest.

I found finishing with a darkish brown shellac takes some of the vibrancy out of the violet colour, looking a lot better. Not great to work, but it makes for a quite bold looking pieces.

I found a 70deg cutting angle, and as fine a mouth as practical worked very well (getting a glassy finish and physically sharp arrises) but it was very time consuming being only able to take gossamer thin slivers with each pass.

I think the idea is that the customer negotiates a price which they are personally satisfied with... satisfaction being considered good, everyone gets a good deal for their business, including Wurth. I've never used their fixings etc, but have used a lot of their lubricants and cleaning...

My parents (cast iron) guttering was secured by wooden wedges into the brickwork either side of the brackets... until last year when after 110 years enough of the unprotected wooden wedges had finally given out and the whole run of cast guttering came down :shock:

Usually they're from a single Commercially Named timber, which is problematic in so much as those usually comprise several diferent (sometimes quite divergent) speicies... Usually gluelam is European Redwood or equivalent American softwoods.

WRT rip saws i'd advise getting the coarsest tooth filing and longest plate you can, I favour a 24" 2.5tpi tyzak and a 34" 1.5 tpi disston. They're much more effective for ripping thick stock and will also resaw wide boards into thin stock at an acceptable speed. If you spend a lot of time...

Even a 4-side planer would be a useful addition to most large workshops... In the case of making garden furniture though, a moulder being able to make planed and eased posts/beams and bullnosed and rounded boards in a single pass is advantageous.