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Use treated (at least Use Class 2, ideally Use Class 3b) redwood is Not Durable and will readily decay if left outside. These guys might be worth a look in sourcing redwood which is treated, but not also stained as it usually seems to be.... Alternatively, would you consider western red cedar?

"Near 90" refers to the slope of the tongue (relative to the plane* defining the field), whilst any angle will work (and some will be more pleasing to the eye than others) I'be find that having the tongue with a relatively slight taper makes for a more secure fit. *Geometric

You don't actually need a flat bit at the edge, Just use an angle of near to 90 degrees for the slope and you'll be able to fit it into a suitably sized groove... defining a flat tongue to fit the grove in the panel becomes useful when you start adding beading or mouldings to the panel (I have...

This is the thing: without seeing the managment plan for the woodland in question and licence for the felling operation, you can't actually be sure it's sustainable, much less guarantee it... Of them all, the FC is most likely (more likely than not in fact) to be harvesting deciduous trees in a...

Getting away from certification bodies (all of which are a little flawed), it's important that people don't use sustainable willy-nilly, if something is environmentally sound in that it's reclaimed from non-commercial felling, explain how... Don't just subject the S-Word to further denigration...

Note the emphasis: The word sustainable gets badly misused and it's important that people understand that for timber to be sustainable it needs to be coming from a source that will be replaced like for like, this simply doesn't happen currently with old-growth hardwoods, though I very much...

Oh really now?... have you got evidence of the stands of new indigenous deciduous trees that are being planted to replace the old growth trees the timber is sourced from? Or are you just bandying about the S-word with impunity just because they're definitely not using illegally imported logs...

Repost from the other thread: Just so you're aware a router table is a very different tool to a spindle moulder; higher rpm, different tooling, different operating principle (in terms of how they cut the wood: spindle moulder is a cutting angle simmilar to a hand plane, using Type 1 chip...

To clear up any confusion, the hand tools bit refers to hand-powered, not hand-held... Also, just so you're aware a router table is a very different tool to a spindle moulder; higher rpm, different tooling, different operating principle (in terms of how they cut the wood)... the only major...

That is very interesting to hear, I'm used to using band re-saws (Stenner's too, funnily enough) and I've never understood why roller fences and power feeds aren't available as after market accessories for normal bandsaws; I'd love to see how you've build yours.

I would tend to agree with that, the 106 year old traditional windows in my parents house have held up much better than any modern ones i've seen. Not so sure about the paints, certainly the factory applied coatings can outlast anything that has come before them; the problem coming when they do...

You can do it by hand on the oilstone (or coarse wet and dry)... it will take a while, but it's not too hard, a jig in principle is great, but in practice could apply undesirably much pressure to the point of the lower side of the edge, scoring into the stone/tearing the paper. I would start...

I actually do expect that... If a product is described as being made in a certain way, I expect that the manufacture is actually doing it in that way, anything else is utterly dishonest and runs close to the wind with the 'as described' portion of the trade descriptions act. (Doubly so if the...

I'd say it was too much to charge for what it is... but I'm a Tight-fisted Yorkshireman (also one of their waney edged boards is more than a day's wages for me). However, I can see there would be a market for them, and considering that they're done by hand it seems a fair price... for my money...

Whilst that many nails might seem excessive; I was keenly aware that just nailing it perpendicular to the long grain was going to allow a little movement, so I made some fine adjustments by the application of a large mallet then clamped it firmly and added more (and then more again) nails...

Re-cutting teeth is not too bad (unless they're huge, like on a big rip-saw; then you need a fly-press with punch & die), I tend to use a three-square file to cut the teeth, then sharpen with a proper saw-file. However, the issue is that a "proper" saw plate has been appropriately hardened...

Having read the writeup there, where the shooting board is described (correctly) as a precision instrument, made me wince, scratch my head, then giggle... Mine is made out of some redwood salvaged from the works reject pile and about two dozen annular ring shank nails. Whilst it functions just...

City and Guilds is the standard by which most commercial environments will set their SOP's to and desire training to conform to... So it effectively *is* standard good practice.

To clarify, do you mean you're looking for a bench joiner who is proficient using hand-tool biased or hand-tool only techniques? Got a job description and approximate salary?

Worst plane I've used is a little brass faced rosewood shoulder plane with an ebony wedge, it came free with a box of moulding planes, and looks for all the world like it should be be a wonderful plane... but will it cut, will it hell! the mouth appears to be far too tight (basically closed up)...