Search results

So as vaguely noted elsewhere here, I recently re-commissioned an old Sagar Morticer. The shared workspace where it's installed would like it painted at some point, rather than the current (expedient) wire-brushed and oiled finish. There doesn't seem to be a clear indication of what the...

Thanks guys, I still have that along with other bits to now do, in a box marked "to braze" when I build up enough I'm planning to do the whole lot in one go, as it's a bit more convenient (and justification to buy a new oxy bottle for the wee turbo torch I have).

Knives, razors, surgical equipment etc. certainly weren't... That's where the buffer girls come in. I daresay that the old timers would have been non-plussed to hear of anyone going to the extremes mentioned; as both adequate and excellent work can be accomplished with a lot less sharpening...

My anecdotal experience sharpening my carving tools for use on very easily splintered timbers certainly agrees with this statement. I however find that a stiff cloth wheel on a buffing machine with the finest polishing compound I happen to have (usually green or white), achieves this in a...

Worth the effort learning to use, absolutely. Worth having, if you have space. Worth making, only if you're planning to do it for enjoyment. I tend to use traditional British pattern wooden planes, mainly because I inherited a good set when I was just starting out. They're not appreciably...

The difference between an amateur and a professional is not necessarily skill though, but experience, judgement, repeatability and above all SPEED. I'm probably about average or slightly below for the skill level of average posters on this forum, I'm working (glacially slowly) on a nice...

Almost ready to use... Unfortunately I wasn't able to wire it in to the distributon box and fire it up last night as the laser cutter (which is on the same distro box as I want to run into) is set up to be always on, I'm waiting to meet up with someone who knows more about it than me, in order...

Sounds worse than it is, that was about 3½ hours work... Turning a new collet, taking the spindle out and putting a taper on the burred bit, another 2 hours work, when I do it. Wiring it up will be a twenty minute job, but may involve several hours of waiting to be able to isolate the...

Moved in this hulk: The bolt which secures the chisel in position, unfortunately seized and subsequently sheered on attempting to free it. The remainder of the bolt has been drilled out, the residue of the threads removed with a tap, and a replacement (and spare) set-screw of the appropriate...

My mileage varies somewhat... Which would probably suggest I need to buy some better quality screws and/or drivers (or match poor quality, soft screws to poor quality soft drivers)...

I'm with you on that one, the world would be a much better place* if Robertson Screws were in common usage. Posi-Drive is basically a step backwards from slotted and Phillips head... "You know what would help drive awkward screw? Making it easier for the driver to cam out of the screw head"...

I have a cabinet rasp, shoemakers rasp and wood file from my great-grandfathers tools, all three give a surprisingly clear surface finish for their relatively coarse toothing, usually the surface is good enough to jump to a mid grit sandpaper (120-180 ish) on [physically] hard woods, never quite...

Yes, I had to take about 0.15 thou off the shank of a HSS end mill (very high speed, very stiff tool post, very sharp insert on a lathe) the laser engraving was deeper than that... (1"shank end mill and a 1" bore end mill holder both exact to within less than 0.01 thou, boring out the holder...

Define sharp enough... You'll need to functionally use these tools to understand what you want to achieve sharpening, because "sharp" will push effortlessly and leave a glassy finish behind, in use "not sharp enough" will jump up and smack you in the face with how obvious it is. Otherwise not so...

Breast drill? Often overlooked by woodworkers as it excels at tasks requiring a bit that's more easily controlled in a brace for wood and a plugging chisel would be used in masonry... But in metal, plastic and composite it's much more controllable than an electric drill. Pattern-makers gouges...

Can you remember the reason given? I know a number of sites which insist on use of non-sparking (generally solid bronze*) tools, but have never come across requiring specific manufacturers. *Whilst they're softer, heavier and vastly more expensive, bronze tools are very pretty.

I just dug out and fettled a Footprint No. 5 as a jack/scrub for a friend who's planing down a wide table top glue up which is a little bit in wind... (Also lent him a big woodie panel plane, and No.4, along with doing a quick "how to session on tge techniques and process forplaning a wide...

King **** are a personal favourite, they're pretty expensive new (they're competing with snap-on and the like in the pro-garage market), but as they're a British firm who have been around for a long time, also available second hand if you're looking. I picked up some Rothenberg ones for next to...

Thanks Steve, once the guard-mount was sorted and the control unit replaced (you were right when you thought the switch was knackered) it became apparent that it was in really good mechanical condition, with the motor running all but silently! It's already seen a fair bit of use in its first...

Not Technically *My* workshop, but the one I use... Removed the miscellany which seems to gather on flat surfaces, Unbolted the little chop-saw, Moved one of the wall-mounted benches up, Installed a newly refurbished Radial Arm Saw in the larger gap, Sorted everything which I'd had to move...