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There's an OK looking Huron at one of the dealers in sheffield actually, tatty but still working well, you're right that it would cover most of what I'd want out of a small ElgaMill but at a fraction of the total size/weight. I was inspired to go "bugger it, I'm going to have a full size...

If it was me I'd seriously consider asking him to install that 16a plug on a 32a radial circuit too, for the small amount that using larger CSA wiring would cost. That effectively future proofs for any sane woodworking machine you might acquire (including 3ph machines on convertors) because you...

Really Sharp ones, running at the right speed for your hole size and a consistent amount of feed pressure. I've never found brand to have much bearing on how well a drill cuts, but I have found that in work-hardening materials sharpness is everything, and maintaining adequate feed pressure for...

The kWh price was just a way to monatise the energy loss (which is conceptually hard to grasp otherwise). In practice if you just used a fan heater when you were in there, and didn't heat it to maintain a set temperature you would have much lower energy costs, but also not get any of the...

I intend to put some very heavy objects in my garage, so didn't insulate the floor straight off, if you look at my post history you'll see another thread where people are helping me work out how I could, but the result is that for my specific needs it's likely uneconomical compared to the...

I'm working on a DSG 17T or an equivalent Lang... It's moving them down the access road which is an issue which could be insurmountable, the Lang would be easier at only 2 tonnes. Surface grinder is a Jones and Shipman my friend has been threatening to replace the bearings in for 3 years. I...

Doing some back of a *** packet calculations your brick wall has a U value of 2.92 W/m²K, add 25mm of celotex PIR, a 25mm air gap and 9mm plasterboard and it drops to 0.389W/m²K Based on an assumption of a 2H×2.5W×6.3L garage with one of the long and short walls warm (17.6m²), which you keep at...

I am in a similar situation and couldn't accept an uninsulated space, so dealt with this by spacing the insulation off the external structure to give an unobstructed path for ventilation and adding the required ventilation by drilling holes of the appropriate size in the outer wall facing...

I got that, it made total sense to me when I built a little picture of the heat transfer regime involved in my head which I now realize would be easy to draw, but really difficult to explain in words.

You may already have plans to do this, but I'd strongly advise you to dry-line and insulate the garage before you start building your workshop in earnest. It adds a significant comfort factor, but more importantly it helps you to maintain the temperature above the dew point and protect your...

Thanks for that. The wall/roof insulation once complete should achieve 0.18-0.21w/m²K, so the losses through the floor would be about 1¼-1¾ times those through the walls and roof based on relative areas... An overall loss of about 600w during cold spells should be acceptable from an economic...

It's probably worth it to me to get it right but completely re-laying the slab would see the expense get out of hand. I'd come to the conclusion that if this was the only route, it would be cheaper to just accept the higher energy bills over the length of time I expect to be in that workshop.

That would be cracking if you could. Perimeter is 21.6m, Area is 25.6m², and Slab depth is 300mm at the perimeter, 150mm across the middle.

This is a traditional option for lower precision machines but has limitations due to both the compressibility and movement of wood, I'd be aiming to get at least the grinder leveled to less than 21μm of deviation per meter (two tenths of a thou per foot). However, I could attempt to level the...

This is an interesting idea, producing a much gentler thermal gradient between the inside and outside, and effectively making the slab plus a good chunk of earth into (relatively poor) insulation, but so thick as to still have a meaningful impact, l like the lateral thinking.

I'm well into dry-lining my workshop now, and as I think more about the thermal performance of the building I've hit an awkward problem. I'd like to maintain it at a fairly constant temperature, ideally in the 16-20°C region by using oil-filled radiators and an AC unit linked to a PID...

Right maths, wrong dimension... 26mm radius! I have ordered a 50mm hole saw+arbour and will work from the outside to allow me to hide the inevitable spalling,

Thanks very much! I assumed there would be a reason for your vent selection, but without knowing what it was, didn't want to copy it blindly. That suggests I could use a 26mm hole every 500mm, as that's equivalent to one perpend per 1500mm replace the perpends. I now have least 30 holes to...

I have a vague memory it was one of your posts that alerted me to how useful they could be. It seems to have been largely overlooked as a sensible tool to use in mainstream woodworking circles, but I don't really get why as they're dead handy whenever you need to remove a lot of material...

If I had to pick a single tool which revolutionised my woodworking, it's probably the joiners axe (i.e. a hand axe with a wide, very slightly radiused bit with a very acute bevel, sharpened to be extremely sharp). I was doing a lot of heavily carved work from the solid when I got one, and...