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Thanks for that. From what I have been playing with this last few days, it has to be the centrifugal type fan, and luckily I have found a nice 12v one that I think could be powerful enough - won't know until its sucking through some p3 filters, but without filters the flow seems excessive...

Any idea what type of fan is needed ? a name, a type. I am seriously interest in building one of these things, I have a 3d printer etc that should come in handy. I'm going to mock one up in the next few days with some 12v computer fans, P3 filtes , see if I can get some measurements of air...

I'm struggling to believe the prices of these things, seems like a total rip off to me. Just look at the prices of some of the spares. The Powercap for instance, 4400mah battery - £108 I bought a 10,000 mah battery a couple of years ago, gets used all the time £16 And then look at the price...

yes, that does work, not wonderfully but that is what I have been doing, Yes, but I don't think the rubber barrel is expanding or not expanding enough, may be this needs exploring a bit more. When the machine was new, tightening this up mad a difference, it doesn't seem to now.

we have one of these, very similar to the one in this picture I don't know if the spindle is worn, but the belts that slide over the spindle so easily slip now. Any thoughts on how to remedy this ?

what an excellent video, helps to dispel the irrational fear that surrounds dry rot. In many cases just getting rid of the source of dampness could be all that is needed.

This is brilliant

even though some people seem to put it on a par with nuclear waste. It isn't. Yes, under some very specific circumstances it can do a lot of damage to wood, (I have much personal experience of it) But apart from that i wouldn't worry about the stuff. Get rid of the source of dampness and...

problems with drawings is, you would have to do it every time. Where as if you do the maths and esp if you embed the maths onto a spreadsheet then you can quickly recalculate. This is particularly useful if for instance you were needing to create a height and width and you only had wood of a...

How interesting, we got one of these machines last autumn, I think within the first week someone smashed this little gizmo, broke into 3 bits, new one was ordered but the bit they sent out was very differant. So I made one on the 3D printer (it was an interesting thing to draw, and do it...

aye - but it is a diy type of site, and that should include doing and understanding the maths, preferably with home made pen and paper. Whatever next, buying modern state of the art power tools made from high-speeds-steel or the like, and then saying 'look what I made' rewound, sitting here in...

a little off topic, but when I was making one of these pointy cone things I got into a right mess. I done all my calculations for an 8 sided cone, double checked and treble checked all my measurements, took great care to cut as accurately as I could. But the dam thing didn't fit, I checked...

would be very interested to see your calculations for the bevel angle the one you have at 12.921° I found that very difficult to achieve also, on you red triangle, where did you get the 29.2 from ?

If it is what I am thinking of, then it is a very very complex calculation and unless you are very good at trignometry and aljebra you will need to find an online resource. I will see if I can fin my workings out. I made a spreadsheet as I had to make a number of these last year, very...

what do you mean by notches ? cut out triangle shapes along the edge of a piece of wood ? yes, very easily and quickly! the blade moves back so you an cut out from a mm deep to about 3 inches. you cut it out in stages, depending on the hardness of the wood. The normal cutting of wide...

I used to be a picture framer sometime last century. Have cut thousands of frames out on a morso. And it is a really useful tool for general joinery. As for cutting complex moulding. you have to experiment a little, and if bits are breaking off you need to improvise a bit of packing to...

and this is what is puzzling me, the 'powercap' seems to come fitted with an equivalent filter to a P2 ? Powered Air Respiratory protection to EN 12941:1988 TH1P. Assigned Protection Factor 10 (UK classification) equivalent to an EN 149 FFP2...

I would have thought that was a given. But getting back to my question - and with just regard to respiratory protection. How would a P3 filter in a GVS (half face) mask compare to a P2 in a powered unit such as the powercap. Clearly P3 i better than P2 but is the powered system more...

so what is better, a GVS with a P3 filter, or something like the powercap with a P2

I've been brewing up a fair bit of imperial stout, that is a pretty thick sticky sort of brew - I'm hoping it might work a bit like tyre sealant.