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they are not destructive, quite the opposite, they help to create diversity, they are a benefit to our wild places.

Invasive species is the keyword here, and the Grey is an invasive species. and we really should be doing all we can to eradicate all invasive species. The red squirrel is natural to our country, it is part of our natural environment, we should be doing all we can to preserve that. And...

Training is a difficult one, I'm no expert on all the machines so I can't train or advise others, but i'm often in charge of the workshop. As already mentioned they sign a form to say they won't use any machine they are not competent on. Not that we just let folk do what they want after...

The speed differential is the big factor, I do a lot of miles on very narrow roads, when a vehicle comes up behind, I stay in the middle of the road until they match my speed, then I will move as far left as I can and they will gently squeeze past 2 or 3mph faster, with my elbow nearly...

This is a pet peeve of mine, when I'm driving if there is someone on a narrow pavement I may well move out to give them more space or slow down, or indeed both. And particularly so if that person is a young child or looks a little unpredictable in some way. But so many times I will see other...

Here is what a barrister has to say on the matter as usual it is all very inconsistent. And I (as an obsessive cyclist averaging over a 125 mile per week for about the last 7 years) hate these dedicated cycle lanes, if you want a horrible close pass, cycle in one. drivers give you far more...

I would have thought you would taper something if you wanted it to come back out (think morse taper) its more likely to stay in if it is all the same width,

I'm going to be using 10mm sq bar (carbide tipped tool thing). I am intending drilling a 12mm hole about 5" up the handle. then round off the edge of the steel bar until it just fits in. Don't have any areldite, but have plenty of this 'coating epoxy resin' I will have the bar reasonably...

I am aware of a complaint made to the mens shed association by a man over the language the women were using! seriously. As for the shed I'm involved with, we're about 2/3 men. and as far as I know no one has any problems, we all seem to get on quite well.

I think when you join you have to sign a disclaimer that you won't use any machine that you are not competent in using. So unless the machine is faulty then it is all down to the user. If they don't know how to use it safely, then they shouldn't be using it.

The biggest breaches of health and saftey that I see are those ex professionals who will often set a terrible example. eg. removing riving fences so as to get through 6" on a table say only designed for 4"

I would have thought the araldites to be a bit viscous, I was thinking these very liquid resins would fill up the gaps btween the metal chisel and the inside of the handle better ?

What resin would you use to secure a wood turning chisel into its handle ? I have some stuff referred to as "Coating Epoxy Resin" which I am experimenting with, but it doesnt seem to be drying very quickly (5 days and it is still a little viscous) (I did mix it 2:1 as per instructions)...

we have a newer version of that and all these levels are adjustable. and the outfeed should be fractionally higher, (by the amount you wish to plane off), not lower

What is the rake of the blade you are using ? I have found zero or negative rake give the best results for cross cutting plywood, but they do give a greater likeliehood of kickback.

I done this last year after storm Arwin, cut out a lot of sizable chunks of Hornbeam, Beech, Oak, painted all the endgrain with bitumen, left them on the garage floor, and most of them split. The few I did rough out last year and allowed to dry slowly only one out of about 8 bits split.

so wrapping it a n old t-shirt was a wise move. as I understand it, rapid drying out in the beginning is a great danger. When you say put it in a cardboard box with its own shavings, do you mean the wet shavings from the roughing out, or dry shavings from another project? I have another 7 of...

that has been a lucky guess, it has a dia of 224 and I have it down to 20mm thick (9%) as for drying out, (it is one week since roughing it out) I have kept an off-cut in the house that has went from 703 to 535 (24%) and the bowl that I have kept wrapped n an old tea towel in the outside...

this is partly the reason I left the stump in the middle so as I could re-true the tennon, but not sure ow that would work, and without the stump, would it be even possible, and how?

I am roughing out some sycamore from a tree I have just brought down. so its pretty wet. Any advice on what sort of thickness to take it to, and is leaving a support in the middle worthwhile? On the hidden side I have a tennon for mortice type chuck (sorry don't know the correct name)...