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this is only thr 2nd or 3rd I have done like this (and they have all been pitch pine) I might try something simillar in an other wood next (may be a mix of woods) You need such a big chunk of ardwood to trn a tradition leg 100 x 100 x 350, and I have nothing that size but loads of other...

yes I thought it was odd too, but I have found the correct setting but here is where it gets frustrating, to cover the whole surface I need to select "Outer Loops" if I select "All Loops" it misses the middle bit out

Back to the leg, it doesn't turn very well at all, neither with the carbide or my favourite very sharp gouge, the bit in between the grain seems to tear, is this because it is essentially a softwood, (a very hard softwood) but structurally a soft wood? ended up doing it all with...

Witchcraft no, its all to do with days of the week and classical planets - more of all that nonsense when I start the top.

Some pictutres from a recent table I made - would very much welcome comments on anything that you feel could have been done easier or better. The idea with the leg is to show off the wonderful end grain in this piece of pitch Pine This was destined for land fill when I spotted in in a skip...

that bit wasn't too painful - thankyou I take it you make the work into sections as I have done below - Face1, Adaptive2, Adaptive3 but how would I pause it to change the tool think of someone wanting to learn to drive, no good starting off with road positioning and who has right of way, they...

good god know - i'm at the stage where the more I learn the more I am becoming confused - still lots and lots to ask really simple things like - how can I tell it (through fusion) how to take 1 mm off the top surface

Fusion is a phenomenal product, I just love it, it was a very very steep learning curve, when I started with the 3d printer a few years back, but I did get the jist of it and can design quite complicated things quite quickly now. I know I will get their with the CAM, but it's doing my head in...

Not making anything - simply just trying to work out how to use it (and the fusion software) really struggling to understand the settings on the one I cut (see above) the "Sock to Leave" was set at 0.5mm (which made the depth 0.5mm out and the diameter 1mm out) If I remove the 'Stock to Leave'...

what would be typical in a hard hardwood (lest say oak)

and should I have used climb or conventional (I know what they are but never entirely sure what to use)

I see that 'optimal load' thing now - it will take 2.8mm (horizontally) of material on each pass? on a 7mm mill that would be 40% of max ? I take it that setting will probably just adjust itself for dif mill sizes? and would seem a reasonable amount to take off for wood.

yep - and it worked the diameters were all 1mm too small, however I think that was because of this setting? I think I now understand what the 'stock to leave' option is - although radial & axial? As for the 'max roughing stepdown' since I was using a 7mm mill could I have set this to 7mm...

they have a laser ccutter which is just fantastic - the only real skill in that table is the leg

at the moment the machine is only used very occasionally and has only been used to cut stuff out and engrave. I think they start off with a pdf convert to dxf then the macine makes th NC, then they adjust the Z manually. when I say 3d I want to have the Z in the NC - so what I was going to...

thankyou - I will get back to you tonight, off to have a play with it now, try and learn how to position the head and upload the NC - it is going to be a huge learning curve. what software do you use to design stuff on - hope it is fusion as I am OK with that (3d printer and laser cutter) but...

firstly its not my machine and this is the cutters I have been told I can use! yep, they are the type of milling cutters I would use on the metal milling machine. I was surprised not to see normal router bits but then I have never used a cnc router before. and interestingly when I look at...

Ihave the opportunity to use a CNC router and I am trying to use fusion to create the NC file so (soft wood) for a 7mm HSS 4 flute mill fusion has chosen 4000rpm at 500 mm / min I tried GBT and asked for optimal cutting (for tool life) and it says 10,000 rpm and 4500mm / min (anything slower...

as in just dampen them, leave them overnight to dry out then see if they are tight again? or do you mean dampen and glue at the same time?

Thoughts on what glue to use. The tenons have been in an out that many times they are a little slack (just tight enough to stay in place without any weight, but you could knock them out with a feather) Do I 1. Just use PVA 2. that polyurathane expanding gorilla glue stuff 3. put a screw hole...