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Reseating the chuck/arbor doesn't seem to help. Just had an email reply back from Axminster which I am pretty shocked at... "The spindle run out tolerance is 0.2mm" :(

The arbor isn't bottoming out, and yep, 3 arbors and 3 chucks Thanks for taking the time to do those measurements. Interesting results. For reference, the replacement chuck they sent (which is different to the one that comes with the drill press) is this one Axminster Workshop 16mm Keyless...

Sorry for the confusion! That was me trying to show why I don't think the issue was with the spindle/arbor, but I have no idea what a good reading for a drill in this price bracket should actually be at the arbor, ...hence me asking :) That was the reading at the arbor. The reading at the...

Not sure why that would make a difference? I'm measuring the relative difference.

Yep, I have tried turning the arbor. Still seems to run very true when measuring the arbor, but same results after that. I'm pretty confident the rod is true as I have tested it. And as I have mentioned, it runs perfectly true in my cordless drill.

In this video you can see the light between the gap of the rod and square opening and closing. Runs perfectly true in my cordless drill Arbour measurement Top of rod measurement

It would be good if people could post some readings they get on their drill that they think are acceptable? Ideally, before the chuck, and then perhaps at the point where the chuck grips onto the bit.

Thanks for the suggestions. It's not the drill bit bottoming out as I am always carefull not to do that. In regard to messing with the spindle. If I am getting at most 0.01mm runout when testing the spindle, doesn't that suggest it's fine at that point?

I've recently purchased an Axminster floor standing drill press (AP700PD) and am having issues with the drill bits not running true. I don't even have to get out a dial indicator, I can simply place a square on the table, align it to the drill bit vertically, and then clearly see that as I...

My favourite is : "Only giving 3 out of 5 stars as I have not had it long"

Rutlands are very shady. If you look at the reviews they're ALL 4/5 star.

I would have probably just refused delivery to save having to send it back. Not so much because of the knots, but because of all the splits. Having said that, I have used Wickes plywood a lot, and the hardwood stuff I have bought looks exactly like in their picture (the good one). And the other...

The "+/- 5s" hotkey is the best feature of youtube. I always use it to skip the pointless intros :)

I think I am just going to go the Holdfast Vacuum Generator approach. :)

You can also use epoxy to hold it in. Which will be pretty strong. In regard to the screws, I always use overly long ones, then grind the bit sticking out. This way you get more thread into for example 18mm ply.

With T-Track. You really want to be using a clamp like this, as then you're not pulling the track out of the channel. The force is compressing the pieces, rather than pulling up on the track (same with the dovetail clamps)

Well now I am a little confused. This video shows him using a very cheap 3CFM pump that he says works fine. Looks to be this one, which has no mention of Pa or HG. So can you can low CFM with high HG...

I very rarely use the locking screw.

I made my MFT table by buying one of the CNCed tops and then constructing a base for it. My plans for it were to use it with a tracksaw and bench dogs for making crosscuts. But to be honest, I never got on with it. The lack of repeatability and there almost never being a hole where I needed one...

Do you mean the plastic parts or the thin edges of the wooden dovetail itself? If it's the latter, it reallys quite adequate. If you think about it, the timber isn't really under any kind of stress on it's thin components. It's only really compression. So unless your plywood has voids in it, it...