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If I remember correctly the only button is to reset the thermal breaker. Could that be it?

No. There are two kinds of blade holders for the Diamond, the most common one will take pinned or pinless blades but is arguably a little awkward when fitting pinless blades. The other is pinless only and easier (designed for blind scroll sawyers!) but those are rare, I don't recall anyone here...

I suspect if the motor had gone it would be beyond economical repair. I wouldn't bother with new brushes unless they are clearly end of life. Compressed air through the case, yes it would help with any sawdust but if it hasn't caused you any issues personally I wouldn't bother with that if it...

If you trust your nephew with a rapidly revolving sharp tool, and it sounds like for handheld use, don't you trust him to be able to diagnose any faults he may encounter during use? Maybe not as far as a fix, but surely to the point of "It's not supposed to be smoking, best unplug it."

My own view would be forget either a Pi or Arduino, if this kind of thing is a regular requirement get a general purpose USB I/O board and steer it from a laptop. Velleman do one in kit form or ready assembled for perhaps £35 in kit form or £50 assembled. You can then in general use whatever...

That was my understanding too, although they would be keen to grab something like that for the scrap value the underlying position doesn't change. As for the hole in the table far too much attention is paid to the smiles in my book, that is what epoxy putty is for.

Again, no direct experience of that model but looking at the manual and the wiring diagram it looks like a PCB fault, there isn't anywhere else it could be, mains in the to board and motor drive out. My hunch based on the symptoms is a blown cap in the rectifier, yes that will mean getting to...

Cheers both. I figure I'm going to have to line some 8mm centres with brass tubing.

Does anyone know where I can find 9mm dowel centre points? It seems most stockists have 6/8/10/12mm matching ready made fluted dowel pins.

I understand that I'm not defeding the outfit, but breaking the screen connector is always a risk of the job. They're on the hook for it thoguh unless they agree otherwise in advance.

To be fair the display connection is always a weak point on clamshell laptops they're typically a "flexi", essentially a circuit board printed on something resembling an OHP sheet. They inevitably get brittle with age. They can start to fail but live on in general use, but fail catastrophically...

What about something sectional such as tent poles?

Sounds like a natural job for engineers parallels e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Parallel-Accuracy-0-0005inch-Machinist-Adjustment/dp/B08YZ27Z7Y

From memory you have one of the external mix "modeller's airbrushes" (same pattern as https://www.amazon.co.uk/Master-Airbrush-Single-Action-External-Siphon/dp/B000FJQ26M ) which works in your favour here due to the simplicity and ruggedness of the design. I'd probably strip the contaminated...

I'd be concerned about the wiring, I assume it's powered by the handset lead, they're often only 26awg or so. Good for 361mA or 4W at 12V. You can exceed that for short runs but if those are halogens I'd expect the cable to get quite warm.

I spent a good couple of weeks randomly triggering those as a student, eventually tracked it down to a magnetic tape on the cellophane wrapper I'd torn off a CD. Since it was just the wrapper it was easy to overlook checking my bag for what was triggering them. However I learned that if you go...

I remember when laughing gas started to become a popular recreational thing and started seeing the cannisters discarded everywhere. I hadn't heard of it by that point and for several months I assumed they were those CO2 cannisters for bicycle tyre inflation for those too lazy to pump. I was...

The Trieste had considerable postive bouancy when the blaast was released. The petrol was there to ensure that - less dense than water and highly incompressible. When the lead shot ballast was released it floated back up. From memory the window was Perspex, same as here, although a lot...

Ferranti, perchance?

What's the power source? If battery then it's largely personal choice. If it's a glow engine the finish needs to be fuel proof. Tissue and dope work, as does fibreglass. Varnishes are something of a crapshoot so test first.