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If the original damage was caused by heat, then that suggests that it melted the glue, so trying dangermouse's solution on a small area first might be the line of least resistance. If there is a similar veneer on the underside of the table you could always try a medium heat iron over brown...

+3. And if you've varnished it it's make a repair even more difficult. Put that sandpaper away - it'll only make it worse.

Devon Hardwoods near Sidmouth are always very helpful.

I have a Nexus 7 which I bought mainly to keep in touch whilst travelling. Also useful to download podcasts and programmes from BBC iPlayer to listen to or watch on the plane when the in flight entertainment isn't up to much. So much more portable than a laptop. The touch keyboard is easy to...

When not avoiding international incidents, with only moderate success, I was lucky enough to visit the Getty Centre in LA just recently whilst visiting our son in California. It's not just art and sculpture in there - there is some inspirational furniture and carving as well. Here are a few...

Yep - it's still called the PCH, or Highway 1. The views are fabulous, and even more so if you get out into the hills above the road on foot. You see a Big Sur that not one visitor in 100 will see. Photos here if anyone is interested, and I've done a write up for the Road Trip America forum...

We've just been to San Francisco to see our son, Russell, who lives there. As part of the trip, we spent 8 days driving an RV up the Big Sur coast from LA to San Francisco, and after finishing with our RV, we were supposed to go with Russ to stay in a lodge in the Yosemite National park -...

+1 I bought one to spray doors for my kitchen. Used the 2mm needle supplied with Johnstones primer and topcoat both thinned to 50 secs (approx 4 parts paint to 1 water). Really pleased with the result.

I would be very careful about sanding it - that looks like teak veneer and with a sanding block you'll go through it very quickly. I think I'd try an unobtrusive end panel first - or even the interior - wipe it with a soft cloth and white spirit, and then Danish Oil and lots of elbow grease.

I think I'd run the UFH for a few weeks before laying the oak floor. We first used our UFH about 6 weeks after the screed was laid and for the first couple of weeks using the UFH the condensation was horrendous as the warm slab shed the water (and that was over a relatively dry mix) . I would...

Paul - no offence taken and I'm sure none intended. I agree with what you say, but I just had visions of having to pay it to ensure my credit rating didn't get stuffed with them adding charge after charge. Whilst I'm sure i could have won out in the end I have better things to do with my...

It's easy to prove a positive - i.e. that you DID something - but proving a negative, i.e. trying to prove that you DIDN'T do something is far more difficult. We call America quite frequently - our son lives there - but in this case I knew for a fact that I couldn't have made the...

I used to be a customer of Onetel, and had a box that plugged into the telephone socket, and into which I plugged my phone and the result was cheaper phone calls, especially to America where SWMBO had an aunt that she liked to phone regularly. In 2009 I found a better service, cancelled onetel...

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Thanks for the offer Adam. I've decided on a simple shaker style section and I think it will be easy enough to do that on the planer thicknesser and router table, and I may even use some of the money saved to buy a baby powerfeed for it.

Andy - if it was only 1 or 2 metres I would be happy to do it by hand, or by the table saw trick, but 80 ft of the stuff? I think I'd lose the will to live. I'm busy looking thru the Wealden and Axminster websites looking at which cutters I'd need to do it myself on the router table. At...

Before long I'll be needing about 24m of European oak cornice to run along the top of some kitchen and utility room cabinets. It should be unfinished so that i can finish it in Osmo polyX oil to match the rest of the oak in the kitchen - so I DO NOT want wrapped mdf or a pre-finished product...

In that case I would use the Dynapro runners. These aren't cheap either, but my philosophy is to spend some of what you save by doing it yourself on premium quality fittings, as well as buying the "toys" to do the job of course! :-)

I'm doing my own face frame kitchen and had intended on making my own drawer units with dovetailed corners. When I realised that i would have 24 drawers to make, so 96 dovetailed corners, I lost the will to live and went for Blum Tandembox drawers with stainless steel sides. Bases and backs...

Thanks Dodge. I'll be using an HVLP system on the basis that it's all I've got! :) I need to have a read around the subject to see what would be best for coating European Oak in a Kitchen environment.

Another cracking job Dodge. Do you never sleep? I'm interested in the finish as I shall be looking for a satin finish (40% sheen?) for some oak end panels and drawer fronts for a kitchen. Which Pre-Cat do you use? Morrells? Fiddes? Any hints or morsels of info about how you go about it...