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For years I used Record 852 pattern.Not sure if they are still available or what name they would be sold under now.

I lost all interest in the event years ago.I suspect it will be years before all doubt can be removed,just as with the Olympic "medallists" whose samples were analysed years after the event with more sophisticated techniques and found not to conform.My sympathy lies with the clean competitors...

I can't help with the manual but you must be aware that Meddings drills are the standard to which most others fail to compare.Other than a good clean,what actually needs doing?

I haven't tried it with an oil finish,but I have had success with varnish by using a Scotchbrite pad to remove the gloss and a coat of wax to eliminate the dullness of a totally matt surface.As ever,whatever solution you choose should be tried on a small test piece or the back edge of the real...

Hard to see it happening.There are too many unemployed vegetarians with a hate for motor vehicles and they have all the time in the world to object and frustrate plans.

Wolf made excellent machines and if the grinder means a lot to you,it may be worth taking the time to fix it.Given that you need a hexagonal hole,would a car boot sale spanner be a donor for the bottom end?It might need annealing but you could get your practical buddy to weld to it.

Just use one of these and if anybody asks,insist you were keen to use existing resources rather than buying a chunk of another tree.

I'll add my vote for a Stanley or Record No4 used from ebay or a car boot.I really don't understand the enthusiasm for 4 1/2's or 5 1/2's as I have yet to see anybody who can take more than about three full width shavings before running out of steam.A cheap 4 or 5 will give you a chance to learn...

It looks like a very nice and robust machine.I have worked with at least 5 Startrites and they all did a good job,except for the 18-T-10 that some clown put the drive belt on wrongly and which kept throwing blades off.It was an easy fix once spotted.

I'm glad it worked quite well.If you are open to suggestions,I would cut the lower right hand corner off your jig and glue it to the inside corner so that its easier to apply pressure square to the glue line.I have often read of the "glue starved joint" but have never regretted fitting all the...

Without an idea of scale its not easy to tell.If you use a minimum bend radius of 50 times laminate thickness it should be ok.Tighter than that may need special preparations.

Easy job actually.Use the thickest laminates that you can get to conform to your sharpest radius.Before spreading any glue have a dry run to be sure you have enough cramps and you may find it prudent to cover the laminating former with parcel tape to be sure of releasing the cured assembly.I...

I would strongly suggest getting hold of a crown guard fairly soon and making use of it.They are mandated for industrial use for a good reason.You could also buy a suitable piece of steel for your other intended use and again I would suggest you make efforts to cover the top of the blade in some...

It will help if you make a radius template from something like 6mm ply and cut the portion away that will be within the blank of the round section.If you apply a chinagraph pencil or wax crayon to the template and slide it along the leg blank any high spots will be marked as the template passes...

Some good points have been raised so far and I would like to add one more.The size of the machine makes a difference and likely had a part to play in this case;the smaller the wheels are-the greater the amount of flexing necessary to get the blade round and the sooner fatiguing is likely to aid...

Several years ago I had a similar experience with woodworm getting into the workshop from somewhere and not only did they infest a piece of hornbeam in there,I also saw dust and an exit hole in one of my wooden planes.I briefly considered pesticide but decided I didn't want to be handling...

Water should work,just be prepared to flatten the grain with fine paper after it has been moistened as it will likely swell.

It looks unlikely to succeed to my eyes even if you can get a better epoxy than the stuff sold to the public.Brazing might work,if you can find somebody willing to do it.Welding definitely wont work.

I would echo the comment about water based varnish being a bit lifeless.I had a bad experience with it and a couple of years ago I was planing some boards that a designer pal intended to use for shelves in his office and when I asked him what finish was planned,he said "anything but water...

My very best wishes for the future.