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Sorby long and strong gets my vote, nice flute shape and holds an edge

If you have a local woodturner the sapwood can be stabilised with cactus juice or set in a resin hybrid peice.

Try pressing the blade down slightly to release pressure on the mechanism and pull out the locking knob then it should allow blade to rise!

you will need to reset your guides on every new blade, and yes the tension is much less on narrow blades. Also I set my fence to the blade rather than try to get a blade to cut where it doesnt want to go to. Simply done and accurate results.

Put glass inserts into them for the tealights regardless of finish, wood itself burns anyways withou them in eventually - a big risk if you give away or sell them.

When you get the mill sorted consider fitting a winch, makes life so much easier, its a hard and dusty and hot job at the best of times. Also consider running on Aspen fuel, the fumes are a lot less toxic.

have a look around on arbtalk.co.uk and try chainsawbars for advice on chains and bar to suit. I put a post up a while ago with chinease saw and mill (CHILLING) arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/98219-chilling-chinese-milling/?tab=comments#comment-1466130

https://www.safewise.com/blog/best-driv ... m-sensors/

So are the oil club

Take it to bits and see what size bearings it has, if available cheap fix, if not the decision to replace the router has been made for you.

I would really like one of these https://www.poolewood.co.uk/product/cha ... lder-w030/ Also takes 1/2 router bits so lots off tooling may well be covered by already owned bits.

My original cool blocks eventually wore out. I made new ones from hardwood, works just as well.

Yes I puchased another at the end of last year but cant remember the distributor may have been Cromwell tools

Creusen slow speed with a sorby jig, fast accurate repeateable grinds. The standard wheels are pretty good and last well, you can add a CBN when they expire.

I started with an Axminster 900, a good starter lathe that I used for over a decade as I learned and honed my skills. I always wanted to go bigger and a VB36 came up near to me so I bit the bullet and bought it. I have never regretted it, as above i now rarely notice the lathe, I dont have to...

Is it polyester? If so it is similar to the water clear casting resin I use a lot, if you do a deep pour use less than the minimum hardner as it will create an exothermic reaction, get too hot and crack. try a sample in a pint sized plastic container and see what happens, will give you an...

For bowls and technique try Lyle JAMIESON very simple but very effective

I would fill the hole with a cobalt blue resin then finish, makes a nice feature especially if you use a dremel or similar to make the hole look like a natural knot or void.

If the chosed wood is too porus a coating of resin on the inside may help

I did similar, I raised the shed walls on a three course brick and did a light screed of the old floor to level it with dpm laid into the first course to keep the damp out. 10 years on and still good.