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haven't watched the video, just looking at the photo - seems to add elaboration where it's not needed. And, as to the "old woman's tooth, and what about old men," a term in the late 19th/early 20th century in the U.S. for a timber braced up as support for boring tools (such as a ratchet drill)...

Telling us the size of holes you want to drill would be helpful. There are braces designed to drill between joists (1/4"/6mm holes and up, generally). Short eggbeater drills are harder to find.

the best affordable saws in the market today will be at boot/shed/yard/estate sales.

I went all the way through, waiting for the picture of the lovely bride and handsome groom - only to see a bunch of pictures of impressive woodworking on a stunning table. I feel cheated!

Does he mention whether that saw is filed for ripping? That would make a dramatic difference. I can still recall, after years of using a cross-cut saw for everything, the first time I used a rip saw to rip a board. I thought I'd picked up a light saber.

Indeed, yes, I did make that assumption. Sorry.

If you're doing it on the table saw, best to tilt the blade for the cut to the surface, so that water drains off. Unless, of course, you're in the part of England where it never rains. If you're doing it with a router, a rabbet plane will let you amend the angle.

I've never quite understood banjophobia. Like all instruments, it can be used in the wrong place, but it's a great instrument.

Well, there's always John Cage's 4'33" (or the extended version of it, for long videos). To my surprise, there are several YouTube iterations of this composition. Seems to kind of defeat the intention. And to Tyreman: I don't much like musical backgrounds on videos, but jazz of any sort might...

What type of binder clip? Some can be drilled more easily than others. I agree that a mechanical fastener might be better, if that's possible. An epoxy might work; you would want to roughen up the glue surfaces to provide a mechanical bond, and make sure they're clean clean clean too (and...

Any "curing" oil is an issue. Tung, linseed (boiled or not), etc.; or any finish containing them. The curing/hardening process produces heat (chemists say "exothermic"), and the oils are flammable. The fire triangle is heat/combustible/oxygen, and it seems like there's always some oxygen...

At times, loggers would bore multiple holes into the trunk of a tree at cutting height, both to reduce the amount of wood to be removed by the saw and to provide somewhere for the sawdust to go (deep in the trunk, it would have a hard time working its way out to sunlight). If you ever travel...

I like the 51s and 52s. Adjustment is by touch/guess/learning - no screws. BUT it will go around a tighter corner than the 151 series, because the screws don't get in the way. Like driving a sports car in comparison to the 151. Stanley, Record - pretty much the same tool. The Stanley 63X is...

"Be good; and, if you can't be good, be careful; and, if you can't be careful, name it after me." Learned from a girlfriend in high school, who, I later learned, sure hadn't been careful, but was lucky.

Drawings would help. Or pictures. The answer depends on things like whether the roof is flat and level, or flat and pitched. If pitched toward your proposed addition, you'll need extra work to drain water off where the roof hits the wall...at some point it stops being sensible to maintain the...

Is it bent, or did the toe get snapped off? If the latter, is that a problem, or do you just have a shorter saw?

Embrittlement, specifically hydrogen embrittlement - hydrogen atoms alloyed into cast iron and steel - has been a discussion issue with all the various chemical/electrolytical rust removal processes. I saw a reference to a study in which the hydrogen was found to off-gas in a few hours, leaving...

In going back and looking at your picture in the original post, I'm not sure you've got enough depth to swing the new door fully open if you put the old door back; so, no, maybe not such a good idea. You've had plenty of useful advice about insulating/sealing your newly-inside wall surfaces...

I'd change my mind and put a door back where the original one was, without removing your new one. You'd get what is referred to here in the U.S. as a "vestibule," and it makes a huge difference in keeping the cold out when done right. Do proper sealing with your door insulation and think, in...

Forging your own bolt for a one-off seems like a lot of work.