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Vertical metal cutting bandsaw is going to be best bet, I have a startrite that works very well with the suitable size blade from tuffsaws A linisher with different sized contact wheels can then be used to clean the edges back. If you’re doing a lot and they are intricate then I’d be sending an...

As the bench settles the surface will likely move a bit and then seasonally. This means a light skim with a plane every now and again will likely be desirable to keep it all flat enough. This will also refresh the surface from the dings and spills a bench will see. If it were me I’d leave off...

No direct experience but a friend has done a few stints - lots of mangled screws where people have tried with the wrong bit - so a good set of screwdrivers, screw extractors if you have them, and the roses tin of helpful screws collected in every self respecting she’d come in handy. Multimeter...

No harm in use the clear oil based preserver. Will soak in and slow down any decay. The wood will still weather to gray.

I’d try a new blade - I don’t have any flutter side to side - on my own bandsaw I set the side guides a paper thickness from the blade so any side wobble would be noticeable hence being fairly confident

I’d taper the sides of the wedge so that when tapped in the eye is filled. You could also add a cross wedge at 90 degrees but I don’t see the need in your example.

Scoring the cut line first with a knife, if you can, will save chipping

Having spent the weekend helping a friend fit a kitchen and only having a jigsaw I really missed my track saw. If you cut a lot of sheet goods they’re really useful

Just to check - you are cutting the edge to an angle to turn a regular blade into a skew? You can get diamond blades for cutting metal in an angle grinder- they work well, less likely to fracture than a fibre disk and cut quite cool. That with improvised flood coolant from a hose pipe should...

Please do try a new blade that’s what I’d be betting on

That looks a useful size (the one I found is on the large size) Yeah handle goes through the infil, if the head is fitted to the handle with a taper fit then straight forward to knock it out and then the infil is going to be a block with a tapered mortice. If the handle is held on with wedges...

With the new job keeping me out of the workshop more than I’d like I’ve spent a fair amount of time on trains watching videos and reading online. Seems like it’s inevitable on US sites and videos that the Studley toolchest will show up at some point and the modern replicas of the mallet within...

Looks like quite a fine toothed blade so more suited to thin material. I’d try something like the fast cut from tuffsaws

have you done any general checks? Do the wheels spin freely, are the blade guards set to be close but not touching, is the blade sharp, is the motor free from dirt and debris, etc If it’s struggling under load then it’s likely either something with the motor not delivering enough power, too...

Stopped sliding dovetails (slid from the spine) would work if you wanted the challenge

Silicone sealant in a tube that’s cured works well

Rectangular blocks in a brick pattern is my preference. Golden rectangle gives a good size to each block

Much more likely to be fishing - as already posted Thompson made a wide range of fly tying vises

Looks like one of the bits in the old catalogue posted here http://classicflyrodforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=132166

Big ole chain