Search results

The Isaac Greaves was pretty warped but the 60g made fairly swift work of it and it is now flat enough where it matters. Steel is noticeably harder than the Ibbotson At 1/2” and 3/4” they’re handy sizes - and noticeable heft at 5mm and 7mm thicknesses.

Sleeplessly browsing online I came across some unusual looking chisels and a few days later they arrived They’re both stouter than other firmer chisels I have but not as chunky as mortice chisels Something quite pleasing about the Isaac Greaves mark Vs the usual stamping Another of the...

If you know the diameter of the column a drill bit of the same size can be use to cut the corresponding cove - best done before the rest of the tenon shaping though. Hot gluing a scrap on could give a centre to use for drilling. Otherwise as said scribe it in with a gouge

If you could get a nice hydraulic fit for the lid e.g with liners extending from the base into the lid inside I reckon that would be better than hinges.

I’ll be in - just need to sort email. Hope is that getting notified by all the activity in this thread acts as a daily reminder!

they can be repurposed Frame saw as mentioned Mount strips in a handle to make a Polishing mop rake Used as steel stock for blades in cutting gauges, marking knives, shims etc Used to practice resharpening using a mounted stone in a rotary tool etc etc

Salmiakki is made by dissolving salty liquorice in vodka- makes for an interesting short

If you also enjoy the occasional liquid refreshment then give Fisk a try - it’s like fisherman’s friends in an alcoholic drink format. https://www.urban-drinks.co.uk/fisk-the-classic-10l-30-vol.html

There’s an interesting write up on the Japan woodcraft association site with a vid of a similar style piece. https://japanwoodcraftassociation.com/masters/suda-kenji/ It’s a really interesting design that I wouldn’t have thought of

Very nicely done - great choices of timbers

I’d just use pharma grade mineral oil and then top with a homebrew of beeswax a bit of carnauba and oil of choice.

If the fence to blade alignment stays the same then you shouldn’t introduce any drift.

For UJK money you could get a full on wabeco stand https://www.wabeco-remscheid.de/bohrstander-zubehor/bohrstander-frasstander-bf/bf1240.html

But back to the OPs question - should they adjust the table as well as the fence?

Sssshhhh (Might have just brought back more than 6 stones from Japan) :D

Bit like a the cap irons on Japanese planes which are set by tapping up to the edge. Get it all roughly in place and then add a bit of tension with the timber wedge then tap the iron to depth, then tap the cap iron up to <1mm from the edge, then tighten the wedge.

I’d get it back together, sharpen it and start using it. The sole will clean up through use- especially as I think in your other post you mentioned recycled timber use. Lapping the sole flat is something you could do on a cold dark winters night - but for now I’d start using it. Biggest...

If you can apply heat directly to the screw - e.g. soldering iron, small torch flame, the heat expansion and cooling can help to loosen the bond. If you were worried about the blade temper you could submerge the cutting end in water while you do it- temper point likely 180c+ so the water...

If the table has a t slot I’d align that to the blade, same as Fitzroy. The challenge can be if your saw is like mine and attaches the lower blade guides to the table as you’ll need to ensure you readjust those after adjusting - and go through the process of making sure the blade is 100%...

I wouldn’t glue them but I would pretreat/paint them