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A fair amount of pieces in that style were coming from Denmark, so could be a danish piece. Guessing the top is veneered boards rather than solid? Refinished it’ll be a nice table though to my eye looks a bit top heavy when fully extended. Mid century is a definite trend, have seen ercol...

Nice job with that. Had pitch pine parquet hidden under carpet in my place, took a fair amount of work to just refinish it, and I didn’t get it looking anywhere near as good as the finish you’ve managed.

Josh Burrell would be worth a shout to see if he’d consider making one

I was commenting more on the fact that people were starting to think they could take ready made chisels and cold treat the steel to any effect. Continuous cooling from critical to martensite finish is the optimum, but unrealistic. As quick as possible from quench to cold is achievable, and then...

Most freezers will be about -25F, so if it’s not in the freezer and down to temp within 0.1hours (6 minutes) of coming out of quench it’ll do nothing……… Graph shows T1 steel but won’t be wildly different for others.

Or just bleach off the stain with BKF, I’ve done it before when it’s stained plastics. Once the plastic is stained wiping with any amount of thinner is ineffective

I’ve not seen these on their site https://www.corradishop.com/sharpening-files-c-2_10/auger-bit-riffler-file-p-808 Guess you just mean a triangular file which yes are available lots of places

If you’ve got it hot enough that water cooling causes issues you’ve already got it too hot. Frequent dunks in water will give a nice visual clue to heat, once the moisture near the edge you’re grinding has dried it’s time to dunk again Also bare hands and when getting too hot to handle that’s...

You’ll want a dewar rather than a decanter if planning to store LN for any time

Bleaching out the ink with something like oxalic is worth a try before resorting to anything more severe

Whatever is in Upvc cleaner sold by tool station/screwfix can be a handy solvent Where it has soaked in its not just a case of wiping off though If it were me I would try barkeepers friend powder -made to a paste and applied over the top and left for a few minutes- the oxalic acid can help...

Cryo on those low alloy steels is always going to be marginal at best though

Corradi do specific files, as you say can be harder to find a source in uk for them though so need to be posted from Italy

@TRITON Ideally it’s a constant cooling rate from critical temp down to cryo temp, so need to move fast from quench to cold treatment. This means cryo won’t do anything for anything you have already. It has to be done at heat treat stage and before tempering. By dropping the retained austenite...

Nice resto, blades looks like it has some life in it yet, I’d try just sharpening it up and then using it before looking for a new blade

Screwdriver bit in a brace is very hard for slotted screws to say no to. It’s the main reason I’ve kept my brace. Otherwise make sure you have a screwdriver bit that fits the slot well and then apply as much torque as you can. If the head snaps off you can revert to the drill and plug approach.

If painting softwood, soak in clear wood preserver, then paint of choice. As you build it think about how to stop gravity letting water get into the joints. Also plan for seasonal movement.

A lathe would be my first thought assuming a way of holding the piece in a chuck Otherwise I would assume that you could freehand drill from each end, maybe using a jig to locate the hole and start it off straight. So long as they still meet in the middle you can then tweak with an extra long...

Ah, I got a kit for much less than that, was a few years ago though

I’d use OSB again but check for osb 3 as it stands up better to moisture. Then rather than using felt use roofing rubber. It’s what I’ve done for mine and so far has been much better than anything I’ve used before.