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Could polishing pads on a handheld sander work - easier to cover the area of a bat and if you already have a sander then potentially cheaper too

With a few slight differences looks identical to my bandsaw - great bit of kit- capable of tensioning decent sized blades too.

Nice work - as you say the smaller you go the lower the margin for error so a good learning exercise on measuring marking and dimensioning the wood. Did you take any WIP pictures - always nice to see the process you followed.

You don’t need the shapton - sandpaper on something flat works in a pinch. In Japan most people I saw were using an atoma plate - £40 in Japan a bit more here

A Stanley bull nose plane , a Stanley block plane with adjustable mouth - looks standard angle bed rather than low angle, and another block plane with less adjustments. As each of these is bevel up instead of bevel down the sharpening angle changes the cutting angle angle of the plane - want a...

easiest solution would be to use a coaster under glasses and mugs. Or you would need to go for something more heavy duty than a wax finish. As an example Rustins plastic coat would give you a water resistant finish that would stand up to glasses of water - but gives a different look than wax

Intention isn’t a film finish but something that soaks through the wood - with an end grain board this reduces the absorption of water reducing the swell/shrink movements that can cause splits. A wipe with beeswax also helps with smells like garlic from lingering- reducing the frequency of...

What’re the intended uses - power tool use with sheet materials MFT benches are popular and lots of foldable ones on the market General purpose there’s the classic B&D workmate. Triton also sell a new type with the superjaws (think Elu came up with the idea) which is a large foot operated vise...

I’ve always used it pharmaceutical grade min oil Odd they describe bamboo as wood. It’s an edge killer on knives so be prepared to sharpen a bit more regularly.

Powdered barkeepers friend contains some oxalic acid which helps. Otherwise wire wool and wd40 if that’s what you have

Polishing mops and knife making is perhaps one of the most dangerous parts of the process that I avoid- it’s lost us at least one knife maker in the past few years. Look up Nick Wheelers guide to hand sanding and make up some of his paper holders. Working with papers up to 2k will get you close...

How’s the resto going - got a handle on it yet? That size starts to move into blacksmithing territory

A square and a gauge are your friends. Make one edge straight and true - use this as your reference for the rest. From this you can gauge off it to mark a parallel line, and with a square two perpendicular lines. Cutting accurately to your lines gives you a quadrilateral with square corners...

Some examples of pitting and the need to remove them to form an edge in my recent thread here https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/refurbing-chisels.149070/ Once the metals gone it’s gone, so need to remove the surrounding metal to bring everything down to the level of the pit. It’s only...

Worth practicing scribing - as above also think about which bit you scribe so the joint line is visible from the least common viewing angle. Plugs and screws is going to be hard to make look good - if I wanted bare wood I’d be annoyed by the plugs sticking out unless you do a great job of grain...

how’re you fixing it to the edges? I’d go as thin as I could to fit a biscuit in. Maple will cost a bit for only aesthetic value - I’d go for whatever you can get cheaply, and save nicer timber for the things you’re going to make on the workbench

I’d avoid oak for sills unless you’re happy painting and filling them regularly - utile etc will give something durable and easier to maintain. For the frames as above treated redwood would work well and less likely to telegraph its presence as a repair in future years

I need to add a mister to the grinder to really speed things up - as stopping to dunk takes as long as the actual grinding if not longer. The mess is what puts me off as there’d be a definite spray zone. The thickness of the chisels made them a decent heat sink - but trick is always to treat...

Some pictures would help. Surfaces that form cutting edges i’d abrade back to good metal while maintaining the profile, other surfaces just wire wool and oil to get anything loose off. A bit of linseed oil on handles wouldn’t go amiss. Then regular use will keep them good.

Cheers - clearance makes sense. They’re similar stoutness to my registered mortice chisels but about 50% longer. In my head the missing corners aren’t really suited to mortising so will have to give it a go and see what happens