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+1 Looks like can still see the shadow from the stickers

There are other options for a replacement blade than veritas. The Clifton blades are pretty good for example.

Beetles are a nice way to use a knotty bit that won’t split well

Guess the emails from the lefley draw are still good or would you rather a fresh one?

Cheers, haven’t checked the US suppliers for a while since started to be able to get stuff in the UK. With the tumble of the pound prices with shipping and import are harder to justify nowadays

Could you share where you managed to get hold of thin stock for parers? I’ve looked for a while with little success. Robert Herder parers are seen as a good target to aim for. Should be a straight handle in line with the blade for in hand work. Parers made as small knives for use on boards by...

Looking forward to this

You just watch the line move, doesn’t mater if you think it’s red brown green or grey

You can get colour changing plastic eggs that you drop in the pan with the egg, when the colour changes to the level of done you want take them out. Bought one for the wife who likes a boiled egg and works everytime as is reacting to the temp of the water like the egg does. I prefer fried or...

It’s a shame they don’t have competent people showing what can be done in the time. The jewellery and bakery ones do at least have competent people on. Britain’s best jeweller with someone who’d never soldered, used precious metals, formed a jump ring wouldn’t fly- so why is that the case with...

If it’s damp and mouldy I’d replace it, any treatment is just a short term fix, much easier to replace now than in a year when you’ve decorated and moved furniture in

I’m not getting aebl as hard as I want, best I’ve managed is 60 but often tester reads 57-59. Carbons I can repeatable hit target hardness within a point getting 63/64. Thinking it’s decarb during soak, but edge is more prone to fold at acute angles when brass rod testing. Have done both plate...

AEBL will take a nice edge, this was the slicer pre handle The ultex handle material was a pain to finish, the rubber made it a bit smeary but grip was great.

I ended up doing this Gave it a hard buff after, but the texture stopped any slipperiness. You can get a laminated material made by ultex that has layers of rubber in - I used that for a big slicer and came out well

Couldn’t find something directly covering it but as you say watching them work gives the idea, e.g

You’ll want to work up through the sizes to 12mm. If you’ve got it hot and hard you’ll not be having much fun as it will have dulled your 12mm bit too

Need a hammer handle for that if want a more straightforward replacement. Worth wedging in both directions to get the splay

Paint it with preserver, not much you can do to fill that would work and not compound problems

Looks like it’s been forged out from a ball pein, if the eye is more oval than teardrop then a hammer handle will fit better, axe handles will take a lot of shaping to make fit a hammer eye

Accurate to 1/100mm but reference to wood- are you sure you need that level of accuracy? Interested in how it’ll be used