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Interested if you’d consider postage

Got a pic of the iron? If fairly simple I could harden you a blank next time I’m heat treating something

Depends on what you’re doing but 5 1/2s are nice planes and secondhand hold value well enough.

Yes norm is very machine intensive, but can give a view to how to make- and then adapt to what’s available

I think I remember seeing a new Yankee workshop episode where he builds some

Received and busy thinking, thanks Phil

Have you tried 52100 with a DET treatment first? I see a lot of offhand comparison of steels, but HT has a big impact on end result. I could HT 52100 three different ways and it would seem like three different steels. Bit like the working characteristics of kiln dried vs air dried ash. The...

I’ve found 52100 with a DET cycle gives a more stable edge at low angles than O1. But that’s probably more noticeable at knife geometry than plane iron. Challenge with doing DET is you get some decarb which would need lapping out. Still have enough meat on my current irons to not need one. A...

Probably a bit of 15n20 as alternating layers with the en45, the nickel content helps it remains bright in the etch whereas the en45 darkens

Yeah but doing it properly would seem less accessible than warm it up with a blow torch and then dunk in some oil….. Tempted to give plane iron making a go, feel that lapping it would be a bit of a pita without a surface grinder though

Looking forward to getting into the workshop for this

Pentel graphgear with good quality lead works well. 0.5mm if you’re careful, 0.7 if you’re not. Alternative is a clutch pencil, or just a regular pencil in something like a 2H

When I used to get timber in Gloucester Nicks timber were great and could get most things for decent prices. If you’re not after a whole tree worth going in and having a chat

Under mounted drawer runners and a platform with something to lock in place once pulled out- I’d probably use an offcut the right length that braces against the wall while I came up with something better and then never get round to the something better, and just paint the stick so I don’t...

My understanding is that walnut is graded differently from other woods in that sapwood isn’t treated as a defect so is factored in to the dimensions used for calculating volume- so when buying walnut you always pay for any sapwood on the board you buy.

+1 I missed last year and really missed out on the chance to both make something and receive something. The gifts I’ve received are things that I regularly use in the workshop and value that somebody spent time designing / making / hunting them out. I mark out joints with 2020 secret Santa, tap...

Easily done by twisting the plate due to the wiggle room created by the kerf

How have you got comfortable that the worm holes aren’t from active worms? I bought a piece of beautifully rippled walnut, spotted a single wormhole when I got it home, a month later the whole thing was spotted with holes

If it’s been steam treated the sapwood will have less contrast too

I’d agree, Ideal is the maker of my bandsaw blade welder. Mine looks different as attached to the saw, but principle will be the same