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“S and M vices” is a tough Google

An old style brace with a screwdriver bit is great for this sort of job, can apply pressure in a controlled way, and can lean on the top to avoid cam out. Example here, others available: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204403288133?

Agree with the suggestions to prebend using a former, will make glue up a lot more straight forward. Will just rely on accuracy to ensure each one fits

Holes drilled for dowels and can then be assembled and dismantled without the need for glue?

Cabling and access points will give the best solution - something like unifi will give you an easy management interface and the ability to configure a number of things. Mesh will give you the easiest solution at the sacrifice of some bandwidth and configurability. Modern mesh systems are much...

That replaces the knife but not the layout process?

If you plug with metal after the burn - still fairly simple to file - especially a softer metal like brass/copper. Stainless is a bit more faff

Countersink and plug will be best finish . If you cut the pieces close to size levelling them off will be quick work

Seems like you’re doing this approach and want something to substitute for the box of offcuts Using a cutting gauge would be a different technique, but obviates the need for spacers. If you want spacers - I’d go for offcuts sawn,planed, sanded to the thicknesses you need. If you make a new...

If I understand your description you’re cutting strips of veneer and want the edges parallel. Have you thought of using a cutting gauge? Veneer on top of board, edge of veneer lined up to edge of board, cutting gauge run along edge of board. Fully adjustable so can fine tune width of strip

One of the approaches I’m considering when I get round to building myself a bench is laminated sheets of mdf to form a core with facings of thick bandsawn “veneers” of hardwood - say 5-7mm. Feels like it will give a stable and dense top with the hardwood facings allowing for wear and flattening...

Not sure if proper name but looks more like heart stain than heartwood/sapwood divide. Those pieces will be a challenge though as they aren’t straight growth.

Isopropyl alcohol, but any solvent you have already, like white spirit or turps etc

My gut was that Pear would be really nice, both hard and tight grained. Walnut may give you a bench that looks too good to use Rough janka hardness figures are: Elm 830 Oak 1350 Ash 1200 Pear 1660 Walnut 1010

The lenticels visible in the bark are common with betula (birch) and prunus species. They’re also common with aspen but it doesn’t look like aspen.

Looks like pine, and the shiny parts look like where the heat has brought the resin in the wood to the surface. Some solvent like IPA may help disperse it from the surface to help get a more even finish.

Think @stuckinthemud has posted a few build threads

First is getting the right blade, then getting it to the right tension, then setting the guides so they support but don’t interfere. If you’re still seeing drift then often on a bandsaw you’ll need to adjust the fence to be parallel to the drift angle of the cut. If it’s still not cutting...

Was £3.50 in Cardiff Tesco - had both green and yellow

Was about to post to say if wentwood is local they often have cedar which would work well - but see they’ve already suggested and it’s been discounted. I wouldn’t worry about tannin in chestnut- painting the hinges before install will be tidier and protect them. Can the existing hinges not be...