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Cheers for the close up that’s a Spear and Jackson Mermaid brand

Second says Warranted for sure

Thinking it would have looked like this

Second R looks a bit more like a D but a clearer picture would help!

A zoomed in pic of the first one would help, if I zoom the image and squint it seems to say Ward Cast Steel, but a better pic would help

Just remember to back up SSD drives if you have anything you want to keep on them, when they fail data recovery is really tough.

The bottom one looks like punch brand I Sorby with a load of linseed putty gummed into it

Whilst you can, you’ll still want to saw thick and plane thin, so may be quicker and easier to just mark lines and plane to them.

They look sculpted like with a saburrtooth in an angle grinder

Depend on the tools available Spaced crosscuts with a saw to the depth and then chisel out the waste Central sea kerf, hog out most of waste with a cambered scrub plane across the grain and then even up with a rebate plane Tenoning jig on a table saw with the blade inclined to the right...

If you find a wood yard and explain + ask nicely they may well let you have some offcuts to try stain on - then go back and buy what looks best

Dave Budd does a lot of this, would be my first point of contact https://www.davebudd.com/ Otherwise tod’s workshop does a lot of medieval weaponry https://todsworkshop.com/

How long did they take?

I usually let a few bolt like that as the young seed pods make nice additions to salads

The motor is dual voltage but always 3 phase. Being dual voltage makes it a lot easier to run from a vfd though as whilst you can get them that can increase the voltage too they cost more. To use the motor you can’t just change it to a household plug. You’d need an inverter/vfd that is matched...

Put another 6x8 next to it and have 2 sheds- one for stuff and one for working in. Trying to join side by side is likely to give problems without redoing all of the roof and the adding additional bracing to hold it all together

Clear wood preserver won’t do much to even the colour but will protect the timber For example this: https://www.toolstation.com/barrettine-wood-preserver-5l/p45685 Over time the appearance will even out If you really want to even the finish out first giving it a scrub with something like...

When I asked Ian at tuffsaws before: “ Hi Tom With the gauge the tension should be around the 20 – 25000 psi for M42 blades and 17 – 20000 psi for carbon based blades. All the best Ian”

Nice project! With the top and bottom sections could a sliding dovetail work? With the kit you have you could make it tapered too so only tightens up at the end but is all supported.

Clamp onto the blade using the screws at each end. Turn the dial to set to zero. Add tension until the dial measures the required tension. The orientation of the dial will make it obvious which is the top and which is the bottom. I always clamp the fixed end first and the floating end second...