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My own board is maple endgrain, I love it, but would be too big and heavy for most kitchens. I wouldn’t mix end and edge grain- will make flattening it harder than it needs to be, and adds wood movement challenges you don’t want- a wobbly board due to warping isn’t much good. If I were you I’d...

I do so I can reduce the price per use of my fancy schmancy Starrett blade tension gauge. If I left the tension on I hate to think how much that thing would cost me per use :D (And I got it “cheap” on eBay)

Yeah, I was lucky I got my ercol pieces before fashion made them worth what they should have always been worth again

Find a local small auction house, typically have a fair amount of brown furniture that isn’t in fashion. If you phone house clearers and ask them where they sell as you want to buy they’ll probably point you in the right direction. British Heart Foundation also have furniture charity shops which...

Find a larger one on eBay and carefully file it down to the size you need. If postage is out then you’d have to wait for one to show up locally- worth weighing up the value of your time.

Ashley Iles posted previously seems best bet, but will work out fairly pricey if they all need regrind rather than just sharpen They do other makes just charge more for the set up time

Aluminium every now and again would be ok with a suitable HSS blade. Mild steel is likely to be a bit sketchy

Depends on the stone, some are soakers that are fine kept wet, some are splash and go which would dissolve if kept under water. Shapton pro and naniwa pro can’t be kept in water as an example

Depends what you want Some stones are quick e.g shapton Some stone have better feedback e.g naniwa Some stones wish you were ready for steel with so much carbide it doesn’t abrade like normal e.g. high carbide

The crown is quite useful for straightening- much much better than a dip. Given it’s not hardened then draw file it to a tolerance you’re happy with. Being a big section, that may well have moved post machining as tensions are released. Plus, given the cost of postage I can see why they...

What will you use it for? An anvil will never be a reference plate, so I think tempering expectation is worthwhile. Mine main one is old and noticeably crowned with wear on the edges but I can use this to tweak flatness in what I’m making. I also have a sawyers anvil which is much flatter, and...

As said it’s available but expensive- in part due to alcohol duty E.g. https://www.gerrys.uk.com/polish-spirit-95-10cl-copy https://www.gerrys.uk.com/polish-spirit-50cl

Same as above, I got my carnauba from eBay- get it pelleted if you can otherwise is a bit persnickety

Yeah - it’s mineral oil with a margin added :D

I think it’s just that you can get it in pharmaceutical grade which is virtually inert - so pretty harmless compared to a lot of things we consume on a daily basis. Back to OP, Iroko can be an irritant but you aren’t going to using the sawdust as a seasoning, any transfer to food would be...

Readily done by lots of people, the mix of a 3 phase motor and a vfd gives the advantage of digital speed control so is a fairly common set up for things where vari speed is beneficial

Plain mineral oil allowed to soak in, and then the occasional wipe over with a beeswax mixture made by melting a bit of beeswax into some mineral oil works well. Or something like osmo / other commercial chopping board treatments (which are mostly just mineral oil and beeswax with something...

Second hand startrite would give you a nice saw for reasonable money. Bandsaws are great when they’re cutting nicely but a sod when they play up!

If the current top is softwood, shouldn’t be too hard to at least get it flat, the ply like you say can be lain on top when needed for layout/assembly. If you put it on a wonky top I don’t think you’ll have a satisfactory workbench for doing joinery on

Cool cool, much easier to see in that pic