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I’d be pretty pleased with myself if I’d made that, a fair bit of design in it that would need some carful planning to execute

Sharpen and use, pits don’t look too bad so a slight back bevel might help

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/bevel-up-or-bevel-down.145081/#post-1697577 So much pondering that this is the second thread on it?

Would love them but may take me a week or two until I’d be able to get over to you to collect- how much of a rush are you in?

Looks like you hit the cheek and it dented - only the faces of the hammer and pein can be expected to be hard

At the nth degree a database where everyone registered their tools and could mark as being stolen would really shrink the Avenue for sales of stolen goods. One or two people doing it seems like it has limited value and exposes you to potential issues

The hammer faces will be hardened- whether they’re all hardened will depend- often just the faces are hard and the middle has the hardness drawn back - e.g. by putting a red hot drift through the eye and watching the temper colours. That’s why the cheeks get dented when people use them to to hit...

I reckon it’s Shoreditch, which has had a few tool makers and retailers over the years. Not much looks so far with maker though

The old tool shop in Crickhowell often has some stake tools and other metal work bits. Anvil wise they come up every now and again around Merthyr and Blackwood, or fairly often around Hereford so depends how far you’re happy to travel. Avoid anything too saddled out and with big chunks missing...

On a standard plane bevel down on a black plane it will be bevel up

Scotchbrite scrubbie and some wd40

The bearings in my Elu router need replacing but the thought of pulling it all apart and then get it back together in working condition always seems a gamble. Shame I can’t easily just pay someone who knows how to do it for me

I’ve had similar quality service - intermittent power with a drill, collected, phone call to understand problem, fixed and returned within a week and no charge as no parts needed although drill was a fair few years old.

Or plain linseed oil, guess depends how quick you need it to dry

May be worth approaching a furniture school like Waters Acland and them sending a student on one of the long courses your way

Wouldn’t add wax, linseed oil better bet. Oil will soak in and then polymerise in the wood, wax will slow any oil absorption.

To be controversial if they are lie Nielsen veritas incra etc then could likely get some good money that could generate more value for charity than donating the tools themselves. Perhaps a member nearby could handle the selling and postage of them on here? I’d happily buy the Lie Nielsen tools...

Easiest way is don’t cut a groove. Buy or cut some long thin strips and nail them to the top of the pieces 11mm apart. That way you have a groove and don’t have to faff cutting it. As it won’t be seen they don’t need to be pretty. Even roofing batten ripped in half could work. If you wanted to...

Another option is molasses, diluted 1:9 with water and then just chuck the parts in and leave them for a week or two. You can get molasses cheap at Agri suppliers. Works through chelation so is gentler than acid, doesn’t need elec like electrolysis, just takes longer

Shame it’s all the way near Chelmsford