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Also could be

Scraper - cabinet or wallpaper whichever. Best put safety glasses on too as it can ping off in all directions

Getting burgled really sucks. Some of the suggestions made in this thread are way off piste.

Saw close to shape, then a coarse rasp, then a finer rasp or file and finally sand smooth. The Shinto rasps work well and are reasonable.

There are a lot of little details in that which aren’t obvious on first glance but give the whole piece a real sense of togetherness. Very nicely made

Pretty much all the challenges described will be down to stretched resources focusing on the most critical areas. If they had more nurses you could have been cared for and left the hospital but as it was nobody had the time to focus on you with seeming a low need for support. If the procurement...

It’s as though chronic under investment in health for at least the past 10 yrs has led to issues https://www.bma.org.uk/advice-and-support/nhs-delivery-and-workforce/funding/health-funding-data-analysis We should be angry with a Government that’s eroded one of our country’s greatest assets...

Not sure why people are referencing veneer, it’s all solid timber. Sand and then stain the piece to the colour of your choice. You could look at Rubio mono coat for example stain and finish that’s fairly simple to use and apply

That’s really well thought out, evidently very functional, and really nicely made. Hats off!

As you’ll inky be using it for a pretty specific task I’d experiment with angles to find the one that performs how you want it to. I don’t know the angles on my most used gouges - but I know they’re about as good as I can get for the job I use them for. Sharpening them is a bit more painful...

When you say up some scaffold boards it depends on the incline. They work well on flat and even terrain. May need some grunt to get up inclines and over lips (e.g. the edge of a scaffold board) Assume you can rock it up on planks to get the tines under too. Other option would be an engine hoist...

Looks more like a run with a surface grinder that didn’t continue across the whole surface If they make them in any volume I’d expect them to be waterjetting the blades from sheets so won’t go near the edge of a sheet as will need room for fixturing and to hold the pieces steady while cutting...

This what I’d do I use tags like this in the garden- swapping the black piece for you maple would feel them out of the dirt and the angle makes them easy to read without bending down.

Will still be something of a similar type to O1, 1084,1095 which are all low alloyed and therefore not abrasion resistant. Cryo will be more marketing than any real benefit in these steels - may give a slight increase in hardness for a corresponding drop in toughness but marginal. Won’t do...

A world of rectilinear utility would be a bit bland though- and their brief will have been to make a statement piece

You’d assume a modicum of training on the tools they were using even if just for safety.

By serious lapping - about 10 minutes to even it up and then another 5 to polish it up tops. The steel in the clico irons isn’t abrasion resistant so pretty straight forward. Even easier if you hot glue a block of wood to the blade to give better purchase on it. Whilst not ideal is a quick and...

Looks to need a quick lap on something flat, start with 120g paper and work up to 1000 paper then sharpen. If it’s not holding an edge - what angle have you sharpened at and what are you planing with it? If you’re sharpening at 25 deg and planing something with a lot of silica like teak you...

A handplane would also whiz through it

Scorch it with a blowtorch and will be on trend