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So this? (As a splayed box is just a section of a pyramid) https://benkrasnow.blogspot.com/2008/09/determining-proper-angles-to-cut.html?m=1

To try and get my head round it, based on the photo: So you want to join 4 pieces of wood, pre cut as triangles with internal angles of 90degree 50degree and 40 degree. The corners will then be butt joined with 2 of the lengths having compound mitres - similar to if you were coping the ends of...

I use them in my metal cutting bandsaw and they cut through a fair amount before wearing out. Am trying one in the wood bandsaw too at the moment, wider kerf than the fastcut blades but cuts well. Typically they need more tension than plain carbon blades

Worth reading Custard’s thread I posted, it is one of the most thorough write ups I’ve read

Take a look at this thread https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/how-to-edge-joint.112936/

One option would be to have a tool chest just for those lesser used tools that you want to be rust free and add a small heater to it e.g. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/enclosure-heaters/0605582 That example is 20w and so would use 1/2 kw a day so about 14p ish depending on tariff - run for...

Here’s something similar on eBay that might help as an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125512193184?

Could you glue up in 2 stages? Easier to get one inlay sorted and dry before doing the next. Are you using any clamping cawls to help keep it flat - if not I’d add them to help so you are clamping in both directions Good luck

Ceramic is supposedly better for salt as less likely to corrode the mechanism I have a unicorn magnum for pepper which is great for quickly coating a plate

Some discussion of it by Richard Head in this vid

Sand the frame, but level and smooth the top with a plane would be my approach.

Had presents after dinner this year so had to deal with the suspense while cooking the sprouts. A very neat little box from Scottish cherry, all from a single piece hollowed out- and very nicely finished. Some Japanese snips which will come in handy for trimming twine and general snipping, a...

Here’s more on punching the teeth https://eccentrictoolworks.com/2010/03/26/waiter-theres-a-fly-press-in-my-soup-part-i-background-to-punching-saw-teeth/ https://eccentrictoolworks.com/2010/04/13/waiter-theres-a-fly-press-in-my-soup-part-ii-punching-saw-teeth/

Here’s a die filer https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276103401722? You want something that’s slow with long strokes as saw plate is pretty thin. Recutting the teeth will save a load of filing though, and is how saw makers do it

A die filer would move the file for you reducing the repetitive strain. Another thing to look at would be using a fly press and suitable die to recut the teeth. I’d avoid a power file belt sander as they aren’t really precise enough to work well

I’ve received and believe my recipient has received so now just counting the days with trepidation. Appreciate all the organising and hustling people on!

People went for years with fires before everyone went oven crazy- sure you’ll figure it out.

If you’re happy with paper why not a kasfly

Worth looking at this guys videos on the topic for a good run through of them https://youtube.com/@joshuadelisle?si=HPMKhE_rK4NAGA9h

Easy to put more pressure on one side of the edge and remove more material from it. If everything is jigged up straight and square try shifting where you are applying pressure and checking the progress as you go