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Hi Bill I'm in a similar position to you, knees going (too many skirtings, etc), although in my case I found a Luna W59 which needs a bit of fettling (OK, a LOT). In terms of price Felder are really pretty pricey so I'd have thought that a stand-alone mortiser would be a better bet. I wouldn't...

I've used Elus (MOF77, then MOF177e) then deWalts (DW625s) for worktops for 25 or so years. The big plus is that they have enough power (2000 watts these days) without breaking the bank - but most importantly for me parts are still available for earlier models and are relatively cheap, unlike...

No you don't have the risk of it being flung back, Jacob, providing if the crown guard is just above the material (where we both know it should be) and the push stick is held behind the material until it the blade down, acting as a back stop. And yes, bloody tedious, so personally I'd either...

It's actually one way to avoid the tendency of narrrow strips to be shot back at the operator, so if you're having problems with that happening it's a workable solution.

No, it's only really to give you a clean cut. On a traditional large rip saw (i.e 24 to 36in blade) the blade was always run high. The nearer the teeth are to horizontal when they enter the material the greater the tendency to push the work back towards you. Hence the advice (HSE, C&G, etc) to...

It's supposedly for doing cross and mitre cuts on one saw. I use an MLT as my site saw and TBH the sliding table is probably less use to me than a chocolate fireguard. It's just too small. A mitre saw is far safer because the material stays static and can be supported during the cut unlike...

So do my Chapman Acorns for that matter Yes, the "little mesters" in Sheffield were all self-employed subbies who traditionally made a lot of stuff on sub-contract the the bigger names. That even includes firms which later became well known in their own right such as Footprint, but who made...

To add to the last post, there's a goodish video on the Swiss SUVA safety site here (in German, sorry) which explains about narrow rips. It explains that you need to set the high-low rip plate in the low position so that the crown guard can still work properly, then use a side pusher and a long...

Still leaves your hand too close IMHO. The recommended distance is something like 16in for the stick these days. To quote my City & Guilds notes (and the HSE website), "Push sticks should be at least 450mm long with a birdsmouth."

In the past I used to have a fork lift truck - less stroppy than a panel-saw monkey but couldn't make tea for toffee. Can't see that being a solution for many, though :lol:

I have to ask the question. Have any of the guys here complaining about impact drivers actually used one of the newer 3-speed models? (e.g. Panasonic, Makita, etc). On the softest impact/lowest speed setting you really can drive #6 screws into fire doors without mashing the screw heads -...

In the UK add: Chapman (Acorn), Footprint, GTL (not the brass ones, they sold Acorns as GTL for a short while), Mathieson, Preston, J. Sorby, Spear & Jackson, Spiers, WS, Woden and Whitemore - some of which were actually pretty good In Germany: Kunz In the Netherlands: Nooitgedagt In India...

Just out of interest, what's wrong with using some 18mm MFC or MF-MDF? Flat, rigid, reasonable wear charcteristics, not hugely expensive and you can rout grooves in it for track

Agreed. For safety and the sake of your own back a saw and rail system can't be beaten, even a home-made guide and a standard rip saw (with a decent blade) are going to be better than an inadequate table saw - and by that I mean something smaller than a full-size panel saw. I have a TS55 in the...

Pretty obviously incorrect use, then. An impact driver is specifically a 1st fixing tool for rough carpentry. It's designed to allow you to drive large numbers of screws quickly, preferably into slightly wet framing timber, without the need to pre-pilot. Your club shouldn't really be using it to...

Yes. I'm old enough to have bought and sold more than a few of them over the last 40 odd years (over 80 by my last reckoning, including pre-war and post-war 22-1/2in models). The adjusters aren't all they are cracked up to be and are frequently in poor condition after 50 or more years of use. My...

Alcobond and Dibond (two of the more common aluminium composites) are interesting materials, but I think that they are too soft for the use you envisage. They are used in signage and on building facades but they are prone to abrasion marking so when you install them you do have to take care not...

And there's the rub - "a few years ago". In the last few years bit manufacturers have come a long way to solve the problem. In the first fix stage of any job I can sometimes drive 5,000 or more screws. Stanley or deWalt standard bits snap like carrots on an impact (a couple of hours if you are...

No. But the number of times I read a review which implies that....... Including on UKWS where it often takes reviewers a lot of waffle about the colour of the paint, the handles, etc, etc before getting to the point at which a tool is actually being used. Then many reviewers simply don't answer...

Bosch 2kg SDS Atlas-Copco 3kg SDS Bosch heavy duty drill (1100 watts) AEG 650 watt drill Bosch dry diamond coring drill Makita high speed drywall/TEKS driver all 110 volt Makita cordless SDS 18 volt lithium Makita cordless drill/drivers 18 volt lithium (2 no) Makita cordless brushless impact...