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For future ref, Frost's seem to be the goto firm for vehicle restoration products: https://www.frost.co.uk. I have bought from them in the past. They have some significant gaps in their product lines, and some stuf is very ovrpriced (presumably because some people can't be bothered to shop...

Hi Keith, I'm interested in Blizzard and John Rodd, if they're still available. May I pay you via bank transfer please? Regards, E.

It's not unknown for the screw to clamp down on the insulation, if the bit that's stripped bare is too short Those switches have terminals designed to take several wires simultaneously, so that's easier to do than you might think.

Thanks for this, Scrimper - informative and enjoyable! I'm glad it's not just me that mutters a lot when dismantling/repairing stuff. Sometimes you wonder what they ere thinking at the design stage! It's interesting that the speed control module seems very similar to the T11 (and presumably...

Taking the question literally, then yes! They have a trumpet-shaped head, flat at the edge, as they are designed to pull slightly into plasterboard, but... ... to get a pocket hole joint to pull up properly you need the right tension, meaning in this case enough tension/torque for the purpose...

Most manufacturers who sell individual cutters have good diagrams explaining what shapes they cut. I have never seen anything that attempts to include cutters from everybody. Most companies have several unique cutters, too. You can also get multi-profile cutters (I have one by CMT), which will...

Yellow goes to common in the KITCHEN. Leave the dining room alone, apart from checking that choc block.

In the kitchen: Yellow should go to common, Red and blue (crucially, from the same triple+earth to the dining room switch), to the other two switch terminals. It doesn't matter which way round. As Sam says, I suspect red in the kitchen is connected to the common circuit instead. That's...

Steve, this looks right (or at least sensible). In your picture, these should be: Red* (switch common): incoming live from the ceiling (either the rose or a joist box). Red & Blue: to the kitchen switch. Yellow: Final switched output up to the ceiling rose (from the kitchen switch), which...

Those things are not mutually exclusive. I think it is the "wrong" switch in the dining room and it's wired up incorrectly (there is a missing wire between the switches). The "wrong" diagrams I posted will replicate the symptoms Steve described. And the dining room being wired as if it's a...

All very well, except his terminology is wrong (whichever side of the pond you live). Both are two way switches (the toggle lever only has two positions), and single-pole, but one has a changeover function, the other is just single-pole make-break. A "three way switch" actually has a centre...

I get that, but you need two squares, and you still need a way of checking your "reference" one! I had in mind something like this, made from scraps: All you need is for the green surface to be flat and the blue one to be reasonably perpendicular to it. nothing else matters. You can write on...

Here's a diagram or three: Note: I deliberately haven't tried to show real-world wiring (yes, you NEED triple+earth (four core) cable!), as the way it looks behind the switches will depend on where the live comes in, and what, if any neutrals are passing through. What I suspect happened is...

First-off, I'm trying to understand the fault condition. I think I have got it. The dining room is incorrectly wired. It is behaving as if: A: there is a THIRD switch somewhere, and the dining room switch is between that and the kitchen switch (see below). B: at least two lives have been...

The British Standard for a machinist's square is BS 939 (German/European is DIN 875-1). Some cheeky manufacturers do have the nerve, etc., to put the mark on rubbish, in the confidence that the wholesale price is unbeatable and user feedback will never get back to them ("Oh, well it's either...

The Stots template type, which Rutlands sell ("Dovetail Template Master"), can probably be used either way up. I mean either clamped on the edge of the bench or inverted on a router table. It has the additional advantage that you can make more templates with it, to vary the spaacing and make...

I've struggled with the beading cutters on mine - they really need to be very sharp (and that's hard), AND you need everything set up very carefully. I find once set properly it works well but practicing to get the adjustments spot-on takes ages and can waste a lot of stock. And I struggle to...

I've got the Qiangsheng, Boggs-pattern spokeshave from Rutlands -- the cheaper steel-bodied version. But don't buy it from them as it's much cheaper elsewhere (e.g. on ebay the bronze-bodied one is 3/4 the Rutlands price for steel!), and anyway Rutlands are out of stock. I only mention this as...

The knobs snug-up the carriage to the guide rail, to control any play sideways, and to an extent affect the amount of friction as you push the saw along the track. they shouldn't make any difference to the clearance, as long as the rubber strip was trimmed correctly in the first place (Farmer...

[Custard: the epitome of common sense, as always! Below was written a bit earlier today, but not posted.] Surely it's not the case that one of the two block designs is absolutely better than the other? I put a lot of softwood through my little Kity "hobbyist" machine, and for that it's pretty...