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Wow. Is Stroud really weirder than Glastonbury now? The world really is changing beyond all recognition. E. (who partly grew up in that part of Zummerzet)

I feel your pain, quite literally, as I have both soriatic- and osteo-arthritis. I now find many handgrips very uncomfortable, as they are not shaped for my hands! So I've got a bit of nervousness recommending these but anyway... ... a few years ago we had a group buy of Liogier hand-stitched...

I suspect the fact the original is cast might explain why it's no longer with the saw :-(. I suspect something made from sheet steel would better survive being dropped onto a concrete floor... That said, it's a rather nice bit of kit.

Ah, OK, thanks. I bought one of the Axminster 1000mm ones recently, and it is certainly very clear. But I also bought one of their ruler stops too, and was VERY frustrated that either the ruler was too wide or the stop didn't open far enough. My other two "big" steel rules are 24" (600mm)...

I'm slowly adding 16A power inlets to my machines as I refurbish them. Presently that's the P/T, the airless sprayer and the MIG set. On the to-do list are my 240-110V site transformer (for the chop and rail saws), the DX, the table saw, the router table*, and the fan heater (it's that time of...

Er, which rule, exactly?

I've had a Makita for years and it's taken a lot of punishment, including driving big diamond hole saws. It's been OK. The two you linked to look just as good, more so if the Makita quality has dropped off recently. I, too, have quite bad arthritis. All I can recommend is thick leather gloves...

I'm not sure how you might turn a microwave transformer into an electromagnet, safely - transformers aren't the same thing and much would depend on which method of construction it uses. And that one unit (in Chicago, IIRC)can only use down-time from medical irradiation tasks. I bought my dad...

Just checked in SU (this isn't my main CAD machine): you can type scaling proportions into SU for 1D, 2D or 3D scaling. This can be a single face/vertex or a complex component (scaled proportionately) Or you can just drag handles. I think you can also simultaneously create a copy of the object...

I have the Axminster one. It's very solid, and you could use other extrusions if you wished (it's a single clamp bolt to the sliding carriage). I bought one for the bandsaw, but at the time it was a very good deal so I ordered two. Second one is for the TS200, but I still haven't had time to...

+1 for Rorschach's comment. It's even then a bit tricky, as the act of polishing it produces a lot of blackness on the polishing cloth, and I'm guessing you don't want that on the wood surface! Are you able to polish the inlay before inlaying it? That would probably work well. I did an edging...

That would need a very specialized charger and a different connector to be fitted, too (so they can be charged individually). Sounds a bit A-level to me, and possibly expensive...

The 6-wing one, certainly, probably won't do what you want. I got mine because it would let me get to a pretty good surface taking off an absolute minimum of material. It's not really the weapon of choice if you've got 1/2" depth to deal with. #1: Clean cut as mentioned. I think both the 6-wing...

30 quid / day???? When I was in an industry that hired lots of stuff, the going rate, for VERY expensive kit, (and the cheapest) was around 1% of the capital cost per day. Not per hour! Even then, you still easily recoup the outlay on popular items within a year. I have often contemplated...

It's worth keeping large clear plastic bags if you suspect you might encounter what the biking community sometimes calls "ping-fokits" (or similar). Do the disassembly with object and hands well inside bag. This gives the little blighters almost nowhere to escape to...

You can easily buy tagged cells (solder tag spot-welded to each end). It's a much easier job re-celling with those than trying to DIY the actual battery conections, and you can usually use thicker wire too, which helps performance in motor and other high current applicstions (such as my flashgun...

My guess: bottom wheel bearings (they get much harder use than the top ones do, so I'd expect them to go first). But could be either/both wheels actually. It looks too fast to be a weld problem. How old is the machine and/or what have you been using it for?

I have had two Draper ones, of the type Bob linked to, over the years. Both have been very good, but you do need good quality bits for them (I think the shank size is 3/8" hex* rather than the normal 1/4"). I used to use a normal but large hammer, on occasions a 2lb lump hammer, and it is...

I'm with both Droogs and Phil P. I had a project that needed six holes like that, so made a jig to support the workpiece at the correct angle, and a guide, made by drilling through a block then cutting it on the correct angle, which could be clamped on top. I find alignment is tricky when...

Sounds good, but on a point of info, you can put numbers into SketchUp - I do it all the time for simple things. And that includes radii, angles and distances. You can also scale in proportion extremely easily, but I don't think you can do it by ratios. I bet there's a Ruby plugin to do it...