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That's not a bad idea, 2 strips wound together though so there would be no end to end join to worry about, stagger the ends to ease the bump at the start, might give that a go if there is enough wood to spare to make the extra saw cut! I'm working on how to gule it up at the momment, thats not...

I've no real experence to go on but I understand that to long steaming can be just as bad as to little and also assume that if I were to resteam a piece of wood it would probably just straighten out and maybe harden the lignin in the wood in the process so I will aviod that if possible. Maybe...

Apart from not fitting in the steam tube I can't really see how it would help, with the right conditions it should work in one go.

Well I knew there would be a learning curve but progress of sorts. The two small hoops that hold the legs together seem to be the biggest challenge so thought I would have an experiment and see what happens. My thinking is that I don't want to just cut/turn out of the solid as there would be to...

I have a couple of vices going spare, (note to self must go to church more) if you end up making your own.

Hi Mick, Yes I've often seen this happen and as yet haven't given it much thought, but I'm now thinking, the pins have pushed the wood fibers to one side not removed them you have then filled the space with a filler, the wood is now outside and the change in temp and humidity may be relaxing...

Hi Pip, I think it sounds like not enough press power, by my maths you have about 500 square inches of surface there at say 10 pounds per square inch that would be 5000 pounds of weight you would need and then you need to get it even over the whole area and within a few minutes does that sound...

I know what you mean, I made this this way round because it gave more room at the bottom to clear the door into the room as it opened, there was a bit of space sharing going on! but in fact it doesn't really seem to matter either way.

Yes, they do take a bit of getting used to, more like a ladder than a stair and you really do need the handrail, not very good when carrying stuff up and down, but then again these stairs don't really go anywhere, if you look closely they don't even reach the top floor! :roll: there just wasn't...

Yes there is a max angle! you need to draw it up to understand the maths, the going/rise is the same a standard stairs but every other tread is left out as it were so the overall going is half the normal hummmm as said you need to draw it to understand.

Looking through some resent photos I thought I might share this project that I completed last month, a space saver type stairs with a bit of glass balustrade and at the top with bookcase built under as you can hopefully see it was a bit tight for space to put it all together. Made from...

Photo of finished work required please!

Reading your earlier comment re using masking tape maybe you should try "Veneer tape" instead, it's a very thin gummed white paper tape used for holding joints together prior to laying the veneer, which as you suggest will then come away at the end with the aid of a damp cloth. Any paper would...

Well traditionally it would be done with animal glue, but with care thinned down pva should be OK unless you have a very sensitive finish to apply. Just wash/wipe/rub the paper off the remaining glue that is left will be over the whole surface and will just act as a grain filler.

The weakness with paper that I would be concerned with is that it splits, IE one side sticks to the veneer and the other to the ground work but the paper will separate down the center if either whetted or peeled. My preference would be to use the paper as a temporary carrier and remove it at...

Surely the paper is just a tempary holder to aid the fixing to the ground work and is removed after final fixing in which case would brown paper of some kind do, as long as it is reasonably strong and will come free with wetting afterwards thats all it needs to do?

Well here's my board but no progress yet. English Ash

The only possible way that can work with a simple single pivoting hinge is if the pivot point was at the extreme right hand corner IE up against the wall. I can't even see a Euro style Kitchen cabinet hinge doing what you want, I think you are onto a loser here.

My thinking behind this design was to make good use of the board size, to make something useful even possibly sell at a later date and to be challenging. The main challenge with this is the steam bending process, it's a long time since I've had a go so a bit of re-learning to do, the legs...

Glad I got in first then!