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As I said earlier, I only installed them during the summer heatwave and, as the weather is getting significantly wetter, I need to adjust slightly for the dimensional changes. I didn't mention it earlier as I was only asking about a tool to make turning the nut easier and didn't want to add...

That's an interesting idea... how closely would the steel tube diameter have to be matched to the bolt size to avoid excessive play at the hinge?

Yes, that's exactly what I've been doing - I just find turning the nut with my fingers awkward and, ultimately, a bit painful

I'll look at doing something along those lines but it'll have to be at some point down the road. I know someone with welding gear but I'll need to broach the 'favour' after buying him a couple of pints, and that'll have to wait until life's a bit more 'normal'

@clogs and @lurker thank you both - your posts re box spanners gave me a 'lightbulb moment' 💡 I've just decamped to the workshop, cut a section of thin-walled PVC pipe, heated it with a hot air gun and tapped it over a 32mm bolt with a mallet and let it cool. The end has conformed nicely to...

Thank you - I missed your post initially and have only just seen it That looks good to me as I could cut out a section if there's trouble clearing the coach bolt - as suggested by @Inspector (perhaps I misunderstood the type of spanner he was referring to)

Thanks, I'll see if I can find one in 32mm - it doesn't need to be that strong, I can move the nuts bit-by-bit with my fingers but it's awkward (and painful after the first few) so I just need something that will let me turn the nuts without too much faff

It's not that they need to be adjusted often - they were installed during the hottest part of the summer and I'm gradually easing them back as the weather gets wetter. Hopefully, once they've been through their first winter they'll be as far back as they'll ever need to be.

It may well come to that - but it'll be a job for next summer (or dryer/warmer weather anyway)

Yes, it was possible when they were first installed as, with the outer bolt wound all the way back (and not on the hinge pin), the bolt can be tilted outwards so the nut can clear the coach bolt.

It's a nice idea but, due to the hinge design, I'd have to unbolt and drop the hinge pin plate in order to rotate the whole hinge bolt - the gate posts are wood and it's probably not the best idea to keep removing/replacing the fastenings It's this style of hinge

The problem with a socket is that the dome of the coach bolt head is only a couple of mm from the hinge bolt thread so I don't have enough clearance to slip a deep socket down over the nut.

I've been looking at buying a 32mm split ring spanner but, as I'd have no other use for it, wanted to find out if there was something better/more appropriate before buying it

On my wooden driveway gates, I have adjustable hinges (3 per side) and occasionally need to wind the hinges in/out a little to keep them aligned The hinges are this type with 32mm nuts Loosening off the outer nut is easy but, because of the coach bolt head behind the thread, there's no...

I bought one of the latest batch of Aldi bandsaws and, unless you're very lucky with a second-hand purchase, I doubt if you can beat it for the money. The stock blade was a bit 'meh!' so replaced it with one from Tuff Saws (I bought a couple so thanks for the advice Ian). It'll just about cope...

As I said in my initial post - it's a very short lanyard, if I press my chin down to my chest, my chin is just above the remote control. In the unlikely event it did catch on something, it has a breakaway catch at the back

You're not missing anything as such, in common with lots of those 'plug-in-plug' remote control sockets, they have a 'chocolate bar' type remote control - so it'd either have to be in a pocket or left on a bench. The small keyfob type remotes are much easier to connect to a belt loop or lanyard...

I don't know if these are 'fixed code' or 'rolling code' remotes - given the price, I'd think they're 'fixed code'. The Short Answer: It's a very small possibility but it can & does happen - I always turn off the vac power when I finish in my workshop 'just in case' The Long Answer: Without...

Possibly but as vacs take a second or so to reach full suction I've found that if, say, I'm making a cut with my tracksaw, I can get everything lined up and ready to go, reach up to my neck to start the vac then by the time I've put my hand back on the saw the suction's at full. It also allows...

The majority of the remote control sockets / 'plug in plug' devices that I found were either intended for low power devices such as lamps or had chocolate bar type remote controls. I wanted something that had the headroom to handle higher power devices as vacuums tend to have a high start-up...