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Thanks Mick, that is the sort of thing I am after, What is the "swg" in the catalogue? I tend to use scrap that is around but after cutting to shape the spring goes out of the metal, I understand that to get the spring back it has to be heated and then cooled in the correct way, I think that is...

Here are a few, Original Marquetry are very good I have bought from them many times. http://www.originalmarquetry.co.uk/cate ... eers_1.htm http://www.wood-veneers.com/veneer_dyed.html http://www.veneers.org.uk/html/veneers.html

A decent book on the subject is " A Treatise of Japanning and Varnishing " by John Stalker & george Parker originally published in 1668. At the back of the book there are about twenty pages of all the most common chinoiserie designs that can be copied or traced...

One thing I have always struggled with is making small springs like the one in the photos below. I usually nick one from another lock with the result I now have a drawer full of locks with no springs. Does anybody have experience with making springs like this? And if so can you give me a few...

Dammar varnish is a bit more affordable. What do you intend using it on? http://shop.apfitzpatrick.co.uk/79300-k ... 1206-p.asp

Fencing steaks are cheap, about £3.50 for 1.5m http://www.withamtimber.co.uk/shop/fenc ... n-fencing/

I should forget all about Japanese Urushi lacquer, it is far too specialised for what you want to do. There are a few ways to achieve a good imitation, the most common is to use black shellac. You can apply this directly onto the timber if it is a nice close grain, or if it is an open grain and...

The best furniture designed to house cloth were lined in some way from as early as the fourteenth century, some were lined with silk or cotton and some painted. in the eighteenth century it was common for linen press drawers to be lined with marble paper ( I have one in the workshop at the...

Skips are a good source of free timber especially in cities where they are refurbishing pubs and restaurants, I have rescued plenty of counter tops from skips that would otherwise go to land fill.

They would have to have very long arms indeed:) I think cascamite would be too brittle for this job, with a lot of stress on the bend a flexible glue like scotch or PVA would be best. That aside, the glue would not be on the surface, the excess having been washed away and filler of some sort...

I have been using Liberon scotch for the last few years with no problems. I think it does not matter much which brand you use so long as you get the heat and consistency right. When first made up I think it works best if it is allowed to stand on the heat for at least three or four hours,( this...

Hi fleshandbone, I would first of all flush out any dirt from the splits with some acetone using a hypodermic ( warm water if you can't get hold of acetone ). When it is dry, use the arm as a template and cut a block to shape. You can use almost any glue, I would use scotch but PVA or epoxy...

How about pitch pine, it is a traditional window making wood and it has a lovely colour and figure. You could probably pick up an old church pew for about £50 which will give you plenty of timber to make the windows from and it will be nicely seasoned too. I made a table and benches from pews a...

I thought you good folk might be interested in this article on the history of Formica. http://www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/ ... -turns-100

The book actually covers designs in chairs from 1800 but the journalist has obviously just chosen 20th century examples.

Some of these are pure design, an art object, to be looked at and talked about, others are a solution to needs like the Thonet ( silent 'h' ) chairs, which were the first truly mass produced chairs that were both functional and cheap which is why just about every cafe in the world was furnished...

This article is in todays Telegraph. I'm surprised they did not include any Charles Rennie Mackintosh chairs. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/property/int ... me=2445020

If I have got it right, I think there are two solutions to your dilemma. Have you thought about having one solid piece for the back ( a bit like constructing a semi hollow body ) and then gluing all your strips onto this back, this would mean that all of your pieces will be glued down with...

It looks as though some people have had too much time off and really need to get back in the workshop and do something useful!

Not sure about online, I usually send them templates, they have always been very good and competitively priced. http://www.brownhillsglass.com