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My father in law was a longbow maker and wrote a book on making them which you can still buy for about a fiver. I don't know if the power calculations are the same for cross bows but I would think they would be!

Not winding the vise back in then walking into it.

Sorry no. I restore antique furniture and have had to repair many tambours and replace missing ones over the years mostly on Georgian night stands and one or two Victorian roll top desks. They are very simple in design, essentially glueing sticks to a cloth backing. The only tricky bit is...

The www.tambourline.com that Pete suggested look like a good company to go to, it seems they can provide a kit for you to assemble your own door. It is quite easy to make a tambour door though! Have you considered doing this or are you looking for somebody to make one for you?

What size and application for the tambour?

Yes you can use car wax, if it does contain silicone it will only be a problem if the piece needs refinishing at some point in the future. and there are ways to get over that.

I have to completely disagree with Simon. Pure beeswax is horrible sticky stuff with a very low melting point, the finish shows fingerprints and attracts dust. It is only any good if mixed with about 30% carnauba wax. As for branded waxes some are horrible and some are great, it all depends on...

I needed to replace the filter on my Titan vac, Screwfix were all sold out so I ordered one from Amazon. When it arrived it had a solid cap to one end and would not fit so I sent it back and got a refund. I ordered another one again from Amazon but a different seller, my model was listed as...

I did look on their site and they did not seem to have one for my model, I will give them a call.

Thank you tris that looks promising, I will see if I can get some measurements from the seller or maybe ask Axminster,

I have had my Jet 1220 for about six years and it is perfect for my needs however this week I was asked to turn some staircase spindles and there was not enough length to do them. I have done a search for a bed extension but nothing is coming up. Does anybody know if they are still available?

I have an old hydraulic hospital bed, I took the metal bed frame and replaced it with a sheet of ply. It is the best thing I ever did, it means I am always working at a comfortable height with no back strain. As it is on wheels (two of them lockable) it is easy to move it out of the way or spin...

P.S. The chair in the photo has some woodworm infestation so it would be wise to treat that while your at it.

First off, definitely not Elm, definitely Beech. Your approach sounds fine but I would not use PVA unless the joints are nice and tight and I can see they have machine made mortice and tenons so they are almost certainly not a tight fit. Make sure you get all of the old glue off, a combination...

Brownhills as Peter said. Very good and just on the outskirts of Brum.

Below are most but not all of the bits I broke trying to get the bolts out, I soaked the bolts for two weeks with plus gas, I heated the bolts with a blow torch, I got them really cold with an ice pack, I used the T bar wrench that came with the machine, a ratchet wrench and an impact driver...

That looks to be a good bit of kit although it could do with something to keep the chisel square to the stone. I have their kitchen knife honer which is not too dissimilar and it works very well.

Finishing oil and wax is just right for a little box like that. I think it is Cocobolo btw.

I have replaced hundreds of panes in bookcases and corner cabinets over the years, this is how I do it. Take the door off, lay it on the workbench and support the glazing bars on the underside. To remove the old putty I first try to chisel it out with a sharp chisel, sometimes it will...